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In this thread @winston1 made the comment
There are a number of problems with LED lights.
Drawing low power is the root cause to most, dimming or other electronic switches where there is no neutral at the switch cause lights to no switch off, and flicker, adding a 4 uf capacitor across bulb can stop the lights not switching off, however I personally struggled to get it to fit.
I have simply swapped bulbs with another fitting to stop flicker, but where there is no other fitting with same type bulbs, it becomes a problem, I have some G9 bulbs with the problem, and at 5 x £4 swapping on the off chance it will fix the problem is a bit expensive.
As to extra low voltage power supplies we use to tell people you need a driver, however then noted the 50 Hz marking, toroidal lighting transformer is theoretical answer but many electronic transformers are now rated 0 - 100 VA as well so will likely work.
Also the word driver really refers to current controlled DC but like transformer the word has also been used incorrectly in my mind, so you have current and voltage controlled power supplies both called drivers.
So what have I missed or got wrong, and can anyone after this thread has run for some time so we gather as much info as we can, turn the info into a wiki? Being dyslexic not really a job for me.[/url]
I must say I agree, however I don't have all the answers, maybe no one does, but if we pool our knowledge maybe some one can build a wiki with the answers.
There are a number of problems with LED lights.
Drawing low power is the root cause to most, dimming or other electronic switches where there is no neutral at the switch cause lights to no switch off, and flicker, adding a 4 uf capacitor across bulb can stop the lights not switching off, however I personally struggled to get it to fit.
I have simply swapped bulbs with another fitting to stop flicker, but where there is no other fitting with same type bulbs, it becomes a problem, I have some G9 bulbs with the problem, and at 5 x £4 swapping on the off chance it will fix the problem is a bit expensive.
As to extra low voltage power supplies we use to tell people you need a driver, however then noted the 50 Hz marking, toroidal lighting transformer is theoretical answer but many electronic transformers are now rated 0 - 100 VA as well so will likely work.
Also the word driver really refers to current controlled DC but like transformer the word has also been used incorrectly in my mind, so you have current and voltage controlled power supplies both called drivers.
So what have I missed or got wrong, and can anyone after this thread has run for some time so we gather as much info as we can, turn the info into a wiki? Being dyslexic not really a job for me.[/url]
