Changing wall thickness

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Hi,

Comments, suggestions?

Downstairs is 100+50+100 standard cavity wall. As this goes up it becomes ceiling/flat roof on the inside leaf and cavity. Outer skin carries on up to be single leaf wall (flat roof is balcony and this is the privacy wall. It's tied to the house (somehow, this is all planning, maybe the H wires like brickforce). I want this to be strong to resist winds since is only attached to the house at one side, other side and top are free. No end pillar. This wall would be ~1.1m wide, 1.8m high. I did wonder about hollow concrete blocks with re-inforcing rods and concrete but they only come in 140mm and lower wall is only 100mm

Wall is rendered so I guess another alternative might be stainless straps hidden under the render?
 
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No, it's just a free standing wall, but at 1st floor level.

My current plan is to use engineering bricks with 3 holes in them. They are 100mm wide and have a hole to take a reinforcing rod. At the base, where it sits on the lower wall I'll revert to cellular block (i.e. blocks with a cavity that doesn't go all the way through). These can be mounted cavity side up. Assuming cavities line up with the holes in the bricks. If not might just have to drill blocks.

It's a bit of fiddle but it would tie the wall into one panel, vertically via the rods and horizontally because the rods stitch the bricks together. Base would be anchored into lower wall. One side would be tied to house wall.
 
I forgot to add, the bricks are 150kg/m2 so say 300kg of wall. Wind pressure is at most 1kPa or 1kN/m2, ~ 2kN for the wall, or ~ 200 kgf. Gut feel is that should work but does show it needs the tie to the house. Of course I'll need proper structural calcs.

Bricks would be rustic type, with rustic upwards for good render key.
 
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You would normally form a solid wall from ceiling level.

BTW, you should never render both sides of a parapet wall. One side needs to breathe.
 

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