Chasing cables from cosumer unit.

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I've just had a room containing my consumer unit renovated to remove old metal conduit pipes which held the cable for the lighting circuit. The conduit was on the wall and snaked all over the walls before disappearing into the ceiling at wall junctions. Not pretty.

The electrician who did the work has removed the conduit and chased/raggled new cable from the cosumer unit up to meet the old cables and joined them (presumably using junction boxes). My concern is that the lighting cables are now buried in the plaster above the consumer unit. Can anyone tell me if that is indeed an acceptable thing to do? On the upside he did appear to follow the safe zones.

He also replaced the conduit (also on the surface of the wall and ceiling) that served the pendant light in the room by chasing the cable into the ceiling and wall. Is that an acceptable thing to do?

This would all have to comply to Scottish building regs. Can anyone knowledgable put my mind at ease? Do I need a second opinion on its compliance? :confused:
 
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No problem with cables directly in the plaster, provided they are in the safe zones (vertically above a consumer unit will be).

... joined them (presumably using junction boxes).
Hopefully not, as junction boxes need to be accessible. Hiding them under floors, in ceilings, or plastered in a wall isn't acceptable.
 
But crimping in the correct way is fine, if he did this. Also your now-buried cables will need to be RCD protected, are they?
 
I believe the cables are crimped. I queried it when I saw it (I don't have any electrical knowledge and tend to query everything I see) as a I thought it was odd - I had maybe expected it to be a new wire from the cosumer unit to the junction box/light, but he explained that would involve ruining all the ceilings (it's a flat no no access from above) hence the joined cables.

However, how would I know if there was RCD protection in place? What would it look like? I assume all the chasing done for the rest of the light switches and power sockets are similarly at risk of being damaged by a hammered nail/drill bit so I would assume it was already there, but as this is an old period flat I'm not sure it will be.
 
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It's a Wylex with a Cat No. of 806. It looks fairly old to my (untrained) eye and has a metal face place with circuit breakers. I had a good old google to try and find some info with no luck.
 
That model doesn't have an RCD.

Was the conduit forming the earth for the circuit?
 
Hmmm, I would have no idea about that - is that something that might have been done?. It looks like I should just get another independent verification of the work that has been done before i pay the bill for the refurb.
 
Ask the spark for a certificate for the alterations, and mention RCD protection being required for unprotected cables less than 50mm from the surface. If he gets cagey then defo get another opinion. Were you provided with a detailed quote?
 
How did you choose the electrician in the first place?

Has he given you a certificate for his work?
 
The spark is from a company specialising in all trades renovations. They say they only use accredited people. I don't quite believe that anymore.

Anyway the lights on the new connections now flicker initially when turned on and even given my limited knowledge I know that that could mean a bad, high resistance connection with all the resultant heat and possible fire risk.

I'll have them in tomorrow to explain all the problems, but I am disinclined to let them offer to put right the problems. I'm favouring telling them to leg it (with no payment) and I'll get a proper specialist electrical contractor to recheck/redo the work.

Since I don't have recommendations for a local spark, should I just look for one registered with Select? I notice from their website that they list all their members by area. Anything extra I should be looking for when going for a second opinion in the way of accreditations/memberships?
 
I'd be taking my crimps back if you refused to pay for work I had done. You should give them the chance to put it right first, assuming that it is wrong in the first place.
 
I'd be taking my crimps back if you refused to pay for work I had done. You should give them the chance to put it right first, assuming that it is wrong in the first place.

If the work that's been carried out is as wrong as it sounds it might be, I think the OP would be justified in not paying. Hopefully you'd be able to complete the job to a decent enough standard that the customer wouldn't be worried that you haven't done the job properly.

Legally, I'm not sure where you would stand if you were to withhold payment. If you do invite the original contractor back, perhaps you should bring in a third party to inspect the work before you part with any cash.
 
They say they only use accredited people. I don't quite believe that anymore.
Should be easy enough to check.


Legally, I'm not sure where you would stand if you were to withhold payment.
With no legs, on thin ice over shaky ground wherein runs a smelly creek with nowhere to obtain any instruments of propulsion.

He has to give the original contractor the opportunity to fix any problems, unless he can show that his work is so dangerous that he shouldn't be allowed back, and that would require an expert opinion and may be challenged in court.


If you do invite the original contractor back, perhaps you should bring in a third party to inspect the work before you part with any cash.
If the OP wants, at his expense, to have someone else inspect the work then he is free to do that, but again any refusal to pay is going to end up in court.
 
Ignore my knee jerk reaction about not paying :) The renovation is to be used as a temporary nursery, hence my anxiousness for it be safe for my family

I brought up the situation of the RCD and 50mm depth as per suggested. He didn't appear to know about the requirement and when I spoke to his boss he didn't know of the rule, but thought adding an RCD capable box would probably result in constant tripping due to minor faults in the rest of the flats old wiring. I'm not easy with such 'pragmatism'.

Anyway, the final question is this: do they have to provide a certificate for the work and if so what do I do if they say I don't need one or they aren't going to give me one? Most of the information on the web relates to England and Wales so I'm unclear on the certificate situation in Scotland.

Finally, thanks for all the sane advice thus far: I appreciate people gifting their hard won skills to help me through this rubbish.
 

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