Chemical DPC - will it help in this scenario?

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View attachment 265700 Hi,

I've posted here before with my damp problem - a few things have happened since I was last here but its still unresolved.

I've had a slight damp problem in one particular room ever since I've lived here. The house is 1920s, cinderblock construction on the external walls and stone chip rendered.

The room used to be a kitchen and it used to have a small area of solid floor. The solid floor was always damp and any floor coverings would go mouldy and damp.

Last year I had a leak last year from a drain outside which caused a lot of damp on the internal walls. 5 months ago, I had the external drain replaced, and the solid section of floor dug out and a suspended floor installed. The damp in the walls has since dried out.

However, the ground beneath the floor is still damp and so is the mortar between the lower brick courses, up to the level of the floor boards themselves. This continues to cause the edge of the carpets to go damp where they are near the affected wall.

I appreciate that some of the moisture may still be drying out from the leak, however I think the damp problem has been around for many years and I'm not confident it will simply dry out in time.

When I removed the solid section of floor and dug down to ground level, I hit clay earth which is directly against the foundations. Clearly this is retaining a lot of moisture and is unlikely to ever dry out.

I 'think' there is a bitumen DPC on the internal brick walls but it's hard to tell - part of of it used to be below the solid section of floor, so would have been bridged anyway.

Shortly after the recent leak, I had damp survey conducted during which they drilled samples from the bricks roughly 2 courses above the floor boards, and they said the internal brick work was dry, so advised to simply to let it dry out.

5 months later and the ground remains damp. I had a second person round this week who has advised that I need chemical DPC injecting into the two inner brick walls, on the basis that the ground will never dry out, however they suggest that the DPC will stop the moisture being sucked up the walls and to the level of the joists.

Having read LOTS of conflicting views about the effectiveness of DPC, I'm really unsure whether to try this next.

Any views on if DPC may help in this situation?

My other option is to leave it for a few more months to dry but I really don't think it will given that there is clay earth that's only 18 inches below the floorboards. However I could stick a hygrometer probe down there and perhaps monitor the humidity for a few months to see if it drops.

Any thoughts on whether the DPC will help, hinder or do nothing at all - would be appreciated!
 

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Thanks - I suspect the floor may need to be ripped out again at some point but I'll leave that until I'm confident that the damp is under control.

Good to hear that the DPC may help - my biggest worry is not that it might not work - I'd rather try and see if it helps, but my main concern is whether it could make matters worse, which seems to be suggested in many forums - damp proofing seems like such a minefield!
 
Kitchen, eh?

So it contained water pipes, sink, drains, taps, boiler, radiator?

Have you traced all the old pipes in the walls and under the floor, which may be leaking?

Is next door's kitchen adjacent?

The source can also be gutter downpipes, or external paving allowing water to lie against the house.

Silicone injections do not repair leaks or building defects. Not even a naysayer can pretend they do.

The void needs enough ventilation on at least two sides to give a throughflow of air.

The bricks and ground look wet to me.
 
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Thanks John. The bricks are drier than they used to be - its been 5 months since I had a leaking underground drain replaced and I'm hoping the bricks continue to dry over summer. I know the drain isn't leaking now because when it leaked, I used to have water collect in the adjacent water meter chamber (I've also had the water meter checked for leaks) The gutters and drain pipes are dry - they were replaced a couple of years ago. (to note, I've had damp under this area of floor since I've lived here for 8 years - not just since the drain failed last year).

Our incoming water main is in the same room still but I've had someone do an acoustic test on it and I was told it was not leaking. I also isolated the internal stop tap and monitored the external water meter for a couple of hours - it didn't register any water use.

The room in the neighbouring property is now a bathroom - before that, it was also a kitchen. I agree it could in theory be a source of water, however, I've lived here longer than my neighbour and my damp issues pre dates them moving in. Since they moved in, they have also ripped out the kitchen and replaced it with a bathroom so I can only assume all the pipework was sorted during that time. My neighbour doesn't any damp issues, but then her walls and floor are tiled so it's probably less obvious, and I can't do much to check it.

So as far as things I've tried to rule out (but can't be 100% certain in some cases):

-I don't think the water is from my neighbours property for the reasons mentioned.
-The outside drain has been replaced and the gutters are fine
-I've checked the incoming water supply and it appears fine.
-There is an air brick directly in the space and a lot of airflow - I can even feel this around the edges of the floor boards

I don't think the recently leaking drain and the persistent damp are necessarily directly related - the earth directly next to the base of the wall is clay, and the leaking drain has only served to make it retain even more moisture recently.

I've had a couple of people tell me that the ground will never dry out and I assume the floor space will continue to be humid / damp. I'm honestly running out of ideas for things to try next, other than installing chemical DPC next as I've been advised and see if this makes a difference.
 
There is an air brick on the right of the photo directly adjacent to the area of floor I have pulled up. The other two walls shown in the photo are internal.

The section of external wall on the right is at the front of the house. It is only around 6 feet long (with one air brick), it then adjoins an extension which was added probably 25 years ago. The extension has a solid concrete floor so has no air bricks - whether the extension covered up an air brick, I honestly couldn't say. Looking at other properties on the street, it's possible there may have been one other air brick in the front of the house at some point, but quite some distance from the room which is damp.

There is a further air brick on side of the property, and two further air bricks at the rear.

Beneath the floor in the 'damp room' are sleeper walls - they seem to have plenty of gaps in them, and generally it feels fairly draughty.

Practically I don't think there is a way that any more physical air bricks can be installed on external wall that is nearest to the damp - I had wondered whether some sort of ventilation device could be an option, but I haven't seriously looked into it.
 
Have you got a fireplace with chimney?

If disused, it's possible to duct the floor void into the flue and this will promote airflow up and away.
 
Assuming you don't have water leaks, higher external ground level or blocked cavities then the liquid DPC might help - I've used it to good effect, it's easy to do and not that expensive to buy:

IMG_20220331_111958313.jpg


I would also treat the timber with Cuprinol 5 star and ask on the joinery section whether it's acceptable to just skew nail floor joists together.
 
Thanks all. Fair points regarding the timber floor - I may have to get this looked at again. I relied on the joiner to get that bit right..!

John D - there is a chimney but it's in use with a stove. At this stage I think my next course of action is going to be to install chemical DPC and then leave it for a few months to see what impact it has. If the damp above the DPC subsides, but below it still remains, then I'll explore improving the ventilation.

At some point I want to replace the mouldy carpet with wooden floor, but before I do that (and assuming it does start to dry), I might get the timbers sorted out properly. I don't really want to do anything with the floor until I know the damp is under control.

Thanks everyone for your helpful comments.
 
At least you can fit the hangers yourself, leave the Current screws/nails in and fit hangers with sheradised/skew nails. All cheap at Toolstation.

I’ve used dry rods before, which seemed to do the trick, these look like glue sticks, and are drilled into the mortar joints... again another diy job.


Good luck (y)
 
Thanks Mr Chibs - that's a good point. Just had a look and seems straight forward so I'll probably pull the boards back up, fit hangers and treat the timbers at the same time. May avoid having to pull the floor out entirely again.

Dry rods look interesting - not considered those before. Thanks for the suggestion!
 

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