Clay soil pipe cutters

[Plumes]

Hello all

We are about to install a new loo as our (very) old s-bend loo, complete with cement collar, is cracked and leaking rather unpleasantly all over the floor!

As with all the posts on this type of thing, what I'm worried about is cutting the cement collar off so we can put the new connector in.

Thankfully, the loo sits on a suspended timber floor which means there is approx 200mm of vertical clay pipe to work with beneath the collar and floorboards. The plan is to angle grind the porcelain s-bend through the top and take the loo away, then we can take the floorboards up and get to the pipe.

But...the pipe exits the ground so close to the corner of the room we can't get an angle grinder into the space to get a clean cut all the way around.

One solution I had (found on here after reading sooo many posts about how we might do this) was to fit a diamond disc to a drill with a nut and blot, but I'm worried about the speed of the drill (ie. too slow) and going slightly off square, putting pressure on the clay pipe and cracking it.

So I keep going back to thinking about hiring a soil pipe cutter. What I can't establish is whether we can use it on a vertical pipe so thought I might post it here and see if anyone can help.

I have been told by a hire shop that it won't work because the chain will slip. But I'm thinking I could make a small frame from 4x2 off cuts, or sit some half bricks around the pipe to help keep the chain in the right place and bob could be my uncle.

Can anyone with some experience of pipe cutters tell me if I'm thinking along the right lines or if it's impossible? All we want to do is get a clean cut without breaking the pipe - and the thought of drilling multiple holes in the collar to crack it off scares the hell out of me!

Help!

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

If you carefully break away the outlet and remove the pan, would that assist in getting under the floor to the clayware? Diamond blade idea sounds like a recipe for a nasty accident, and i'm unsure if you be able to cut the clayware without cracking it further using chain cutters. It's all or nothing with cutters, you can be slightly more gentle with an angle grinder.

 

[Plumes]

Thanks Hugh.

Taking the pan away is part of the plan. Once it's off we can get the boards up and get access to the pipe, but the issue is getting the angle grinder to the back of the pipe, where it faces the corner of the room.

I had heard that cutters make the cleanest cut but it just feels risky. I think we might try with the grinder and cut the front portion away, then try and do the back section from the inside edge, having exposed it by taking off the front.

Thanks for your reply, I think I'll save the cash and not hire the cutters!

 

[Robiow70]

Drill into the clay collar, every couple of ins, and CAREFULLY chip the collar away using a chisel, making sure you don't damage the old loo, as you don't want any loose bits falling down into the soil pipe.

Also be careful when lifting the loo out. You may want to use an old plastic shopping bag and fill it with old news paper to block the hole, whilest you leave it open as it will honk a bit.

When fitting the new toilet waste to the clay pipe, you will probably have to cut the fins down to fit. Hope this helps Rob


If you purchase a soil pipe collar it will tidy the job up a bit.
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plumbing/Pipe+Clips/Soil+Pipe+Collar+110mm+White/d20/sd2706/p31272

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

You shouldnt need to take too much off the clay, once pan is out a 90deg pan connector should be about right length to drop into the clay and accept the new pan spigot. The pan connector should discharge into the pipe below the collar, so if you cant get the collar off it shouldnt be a problem other than looking a bit ugly.

Take your time, the salt glazed can crack easily, what you really dont want is a longitudinal crack appearing down the pipe below the floor.....

 

[Plumes]

Thanks Rob. That's great.

Definitely feeling more confident now.

(I've been changing the subject every time I think of the honk...time is running out before we have to face it ! )

 

[mcmoby69]

you need one of these.
http://www.reedmfgco.com/index.html?screen=soil_pipe_cutters

i have used one a long time ago, did the job fine. you might be able to hire one.

 

[Plumes]

You shouldnt need to take too much off the clay, once pan is out a 90deg pan connector should be about right length to drop into the clay and accept the new pan spigot. The pan connector should discharge into the pipe below the collar, so if you cant get the collar off it shouldnt be a problem other than looking a bit ugly.

Take your time, the salt glazed can crack easily, what you really dont want is a longitudinal crack appearing down the pipe below the floor.....

Thanks again Hugh, it's that long crack I'm scared of. It's going to be little chips - I keep thinking of Andy du Frane in the Shawshank Redemption!

 

[Plumes]

you need one of these.
http://www.reedmfgco.com/index.html?screen=soil_pipe_cutters

i have used one a long time ago, did the job fine. you might be able to hire one.

Thanks McMoby. They're the soil pipe cutters in the title of the post. Did you use them to cut a vertical pipe sticking out of the ground? Is the guy I spoke to at the hire shop right and the chain will slip or does it bite into the clay enough to prevent that??

Perhaps I should have it on standby afterall.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Problem I think you'll have with the chain cutters is holding them in the right position whilst you ratchet them up to make the cut. My other fear is they do exert some force, the cut piece could fly off with some force, or as previous, they'll crack (or shatter!) the whole pipe.....

4.5" angle grinder would still be my weapon of choice. If need be quarter the collar with vertical cuts, then make the horizontal cuts, that way the front section can be cut away, then the back section by cutting from inside out.