Cleaning Additive For Vented System & Advice Please

[TheOP]

My 30 year old conventional vented system with Concord WRS boiler works perfectly, except that I need to replace the 2 port valve. As this will require a drain down, something that the system has only had once or twice in its life, I think its worth adding a system cleaner before I drain down.

What is the best cleaner to add to this system? How long does the system need to be run (HW and CH) with the cleaner in before I drain it out and flush?

As I say, I don't think that the system is too bad as everything works fine. Any advice appreciated.

 

[Agile]

You dont judge a system by what YOU think!

You look at the water and make a judgement. The FAQ may help!

Many OV systems are perfectly clean after 30 years!

If you close just ONE of each rad valves then only about 10-20% of the water will be lost.

Unless its quite dirty I would suggest all you need to do is add one can of inhibitor. The same kind as was last used!

If you dont know then X100 is as good as any and better than most.

NEVER use the cheap rubbish sold under own brand names!

Are you sure you need to replace the WHOLE valve and not just the head?

Tony

 

[TheOP]

Thanks Tony

If you close just ONE of each rad valves then only about 10-20% of the water will be lost

Not sure what this means. Are you saying that I should close rad valves, so that I don't need to drain down so much water?
Also, Where do I look at the water, by taking some out of the system drain-off perhaps?

How do i determine whether its the head or the valve part thats at fault? Is about 15 yrs old.

 

[Agile]

You can take some water from the drain off cock.

Its YOU who said you wanted to replace the motor valve. You must know why you want to do that?

I have not seen your system! If I did come to diagnose the fault, then I would need to be paid!

Tony

 

[TheOP]

I know what the fault is, the 2 port has failed. Didn't realise that you could buy the head seperately.

Just wanted to know how you diagnose whether its the head or the actual valve part thats at fault. Would save me a bit of work if I could just change the head, but changing the whole unit is no problem really.

 

[Agile]

It all depends on the age and make and model of valve. You have not told us.

As you have diagnosed tha valve is faulty you could probably extend that diagnosis to decide exactly what has failed.

The FAQ or searching other postings may help you.

Tony

 

[TheOP]

The valve is a standard Honeywell 2 port, normally closed model. Approx 15 years old.

Thanks

 

[mickyg]

if you've not got any problems with dirt, leave it alone. You could just end up loosening all the sediment in the rads so it can find somewhere more sinister to rest.
As with all flushing, its best done properly and thorougly or not at all. Anything in between just causes problems.

 

[Happyplumber]

Just change the head or the synchron motor ,thats what normally goes in 2 port valve ,for that there will be no reason to drain down.If your system was and is working properly then the least amount of disturbance is best.

Try and move the lever and see if the heating or hot water is coming on to try and eliminate which valve is faulty,just a little more information is required to help you further ie which brand of valve

 

[Agile]

Take care!

You can only change the whole head without getting flooded IF there are only TWO holding down screws.

The cover will also have a small dimple sticking up. BUT its not unknown for the wrong cover to have been fitted so its the number of screws to count!

Tony