Coating over Danish Oil

[bsr]

Hello All

I'm stripping a pine staircase using Peelaway 1 (caustic stripper). The stripped wood is efflorescencing (brown powder coming to surface). The boss can't decide if she wants paint, varnish or a combination.

My bottle of Rustins Danish Oil says that it can be used as a primer. It should also bring out the grain nicely.

I am thinking of oiling for now as a temporary coating, until the efflorescence stops and a decision is made. Can I paint straight on top using a normal water based undercoat and satinwood? Can I varnish straight on top with a water based polyurethane?

Thanks in advance

bsr

 

[Notch7]

Im not convinced its possible to coat over danish oil.

 

[Burnerman]

Once you have oiled the timber, about the only thing which may allow painting on top is Zinsser BIN....
Thats the shellac, solvent one.
Decide carefully!
John

 

[opps]

I am thinking of oiling for now as a temporary coating, until the efflorescence stops

Are you sure that the Danish oil will stop the efflorescence?

Thinned danish oil may be ok as a primer but full fat danish oil can take weeks to cure.

Water based paints? I avoid them. Sure they don't smell, they don't yellow, they dry fast but they are much less durable and prone to black marks if anything metal (ferrous) rubs against them.

 

[bsr]

I'm not expecting the Danish Oil to stop the efflorescence, quite the opposite. I want a permeable coating to let it all out before I put on the final finish!

I will stick with wb finish as I am happy with it.

Any professional decorators on overcoating? Strange that the bottle says it's a suitable primer if nothing except shellac will stick to it.

 

[opps]

I'm not expecting the Danish Oil to stop the efflorescence, quite the opposite. I want a permeable coating to let it all out before I put on the final finish!

I will stick with wb finish as I am happy with it.

Any professional decorators on overcoating? Strange that the bottle says it's a suitable primer if nothing except shellac will stick to it.

I am a professional decorator.

I have only ever used Danish oil on worktops. I don't consider it to be permeable though and would never use it as a primer.

I haven't used Peelaway for years. If I am stripping OB based products I use old skool methyl chloride strippers.

You may want to consider using the Peelaway neutraliser rather than creating (potential) issues further down the line.

https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/barrettine-peelaway-1-neutraliser

Apropos waterbased finishes- I fully understand why people use them. As a professional decorator, I choose not to use them. I could earn more if I did but I am more concerned about the quality/longevity of my work than my bank balance.

Horses for courses.

 

[bsr]

Ah OK, thank you for the clarification. Apologies for not realising you are a professional, I didn't think you could make a living with oil base nowadays (on site anyway) . I am appying two coats of the neutraliser but am having residual efflorescence, which is apparently normal.

 

[opps]

Ah OK, thank you for the clarification. Apologies for not realising you are a professional, I didn't think you could make a living with oil base nowadays (on site anyway) .

No need to apologise.

I still use oil based paints because I want as high a quality of finish as possible. I want my brush marks (tramlines) to be minimal and parallel. Waterbased paints do not flow as well as oil based paints and when hand painting large areas waterbased paints are a nightmare.

Additionally I do not want to (potentially) create a rod for my own back when X years down the line my client asks me to repaint the room. Water based paints are a PITA to sand.

I tend to work for affluent owners that have sizeable houses, large enough that the paint smells are not an issue. Touch dry time is accelerated by adding terebene (an oxidising agent). 98% of my interior woodwork is oil based eggshell. With the heating on, it can be touch dry in 4 hours.

I completely understand why people use waterbased paints. They contain fewer volatile organic compounds. They don't smell so much. They don't yellow. In many cases (but not all) the brushes are easier to clean. On the down side, years down the line, doors can still stick to the door stops (blocking). Areas that people touch frequently, the paint, becomes soft because of the oils in your skin and scrapes off. Ferrous items, eg keys and "copper" coins leave black marks. And the paints are far less durable.

The toughest paints that I have used are the 2 pack (2K) paints but they have to be sprayed and the fumes are very dangerous. I can't use them in occupied properties. The biggest advantage is the drying time. I can take a front door off, apply 4 coats and then pick it up, rehang it and close it all in one day.

 

[foxhole]

Im not convinced its possible to coat over danish oil.

You can overpaint danish oil but needs to be oil based paint.