Coldseal roofing v Torch on

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I want to do a garage, with either one of the above

Are the drips easy to do with torch on, do you use a hand held small torch?

Any ideas about the drips on coldseal?

And anyone used the above, any help, or advice would be welcome


I do fancy the coldseal method.
 
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torch-on is the cleaner of the two,coldseal is very messy to work with and virtually impossible to stick upstands and drips without nailing them.as for blowtorches,you will need a 2" nozzle at least,any smaller and you won't be able to heat the felt in big enough areas to get a good bond.
 
Cheers, Are the drips formed the same way, as the hot bitumen method with torch on? But were the hot would go, the torch goes?

Any rec on torch on felts, I have looked at the rubberoid site, seems ok


Do you use perforated on timber, first layer, I was thinking 2 or 3 layers, Mabye finish in green min, or solar paint
 
Does torch on drips, seal to torch on cap sheet, if they both are green min felt?

Is torch on safe to use on a timber deck?

Are the drips formed, by nail to timber batton, fold, torch to fold, and torch to cap sheet?


cheers
 
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yes,drips are formed in the same way.

i prefer to use debotech torch on felts.yes lay perforated first or use polyester underlay and nail it down.if it is drips that you are fitting they should be fitted under the cap sheet and yes they will stick to the green mineral but make sure you heat them well(without burning through) and work quickly,they will cool down fast.to make drips,

the best way for you,will be to cut strips off the roll of torch on green,the length will depend on how deep the drip actually is,for a 3" down turn,the strips need to be 10 1/4" deep by the width of the felt (1m)this will give you a 3" fold and 4" to lay onto the roof with 1/4" to allow for the folds. the easiest way to cut them is to use a strip of scrap felt,cut it to the desired length ie; ten and a quarter inches.then roll out the mineral felt black side up,lay the strip along one edge and mark the felt then move the strip along and repeat,

do this to both edges until you have the required amount of drips marked out.then lay a straight edge across the marks and cut the felt,make sure you keep the cut as straight a possible.when you have cut all the felt you need for the drips,using a straight edge the same width as the downturn you need score a line along the length of the felt on the the black side and form the fold,once you've done this open out the felt and find the black margin on the green side,this needs to be cut to allow the felt to be joined properly.from the line you have just scored,cut down the edge of the black margin(where black meets green)on the short side,

then from the same start point make another cut going upwards but at about 45degrees towards the out side edge of the felt so that the off cut looks (as my old mate used to say) like half a house.this ensures that when you butt the drips together the black margin is not seen,now,

when you line the drips up with the edge of the roof and nail them you already have the crease for the fold,making sure the felt is straight with the edge of the roof will ensure you have a straight line of drips when you have finished.hope this helps.oh by the way,t

he best thing to use for scoring the line is an old screwdriver with the edge ground down but not to much of a point,make it quite rounded otherwise you will rip the felt,and don't apply to much pressure you just want to score through the bitumen not the felt as well,not enough and the felt will be difficult to fold,best to try it first on a piece of scrap felt.(my brain hurts now).
 
:D

Thanks bendy, my brain may ache when i put all this into practise
 
One more thought :D

Say the drips are on, cap sheet ready to go down, Measure, cut, water wash down the side, heat cap sheet, and cut access fron the egde, If i have it right?


cheers
 
I read you use a paste? were the green min felt joins, then cut the accesss bitumen awey, the bit that comes out the side from heating up

cheers
 

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