Condensation in Air pressure switch tubes

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Hi

We seem to get a lot of condensation in the tubes leading from the fan to the air pressure switch in our Halstead Hero 40 boiler. It's easy enough to clean out (i've got a can of compressed air spray) but obviously I have to take the boiler apart to do so (which kinda rules out my wife doing it - especially with two young children). It seems to be most common when the boiler is on all night and when it's cold.

But why would it do it, and how would I stop it happening? Any ideas?

ta!
 
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I can only suggest that you have a competent CORGI to check the combustion process and gas valve setup.

Tony
 
so if we had a service a couple of months ago and he didn't pick up on it then I should ask him back and ask why he didn't notice it??
 
A proper service would have checked the gas valve setup but perhaps only 5% of people ever do that on a service.

British Gas only do an analysis of the carbon monoxide at the flue and if its safe dont even open up the boiler.

Servicing is a simple job thats usually done by a newly qualified person with no diagnostic skills.

Obviously I dont know whats wrong with your boiler but a check on the gas valve setup and a flue gas analysis would probably provide the diagnostic info to enable a competent engineer to identify the fault. It might also be a flue fault or water tipping into it from a gutter or overflow.

Only about 3% of independent CORGI registered people seem to have an FGA as they cost up to a thousand pounds.

Tony
 
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Agile said:
British Gas only do an analysis of the carbon monoxide at the flue and if its safe dont even open up the boiler.

wrong again :rolleyes:
 
So would it too little gas coming through the gas valve then (potentially)? It's not unsafe as is is it? Just a pain in the proverbials?
 
I dont know Madge without knowing the actual settings.

All I can say is that a PROPER service should have included checking the gas valve setup as I and anyone I have trained do. Very few ever do this, if they check anything its only the burner pressure.

I had a trainee who went to 11 gas safety inspections and NEVER saw any tests being done, just filling out the forms!

Whilst Nickso may have done proper services with BG its pretty well documented that now they only do an FGA and if below a magic CO figure dont open up the boiler. They even officially call it a "Safety Check" rather than a service.

Tony
 
sorry to go on - is something I should get sorted ASAP then? Or can I leave it as I generally only need to do it about once every month or two. If it's potentially unsafe though (with two small kiddies) I'll get someone in tomorrow.
 
Agile said:
Whilst Nickso may have done proper services with BG its pretty well documented that now they only do an FGA and if below a magic CO figure dont open up the boiler. They even officially call it a "Safety Check" rather than a service.

Tony

still wrong tony and thats not why its called a safety check....that was done purely for legal reasons.
 
could I have made the problem worse by blowing down and using the condensed air sptray in the tube to get the condensation out? obviously both would contain water [well liquid] vapour and if i'm putting more into a sealed area it's going to get worse wouldn't it?

Should I just put the tubes into a hot dry area (microwave?) and get all the water vapour out that way, then try it?

Any thoughts?
 
just in case anyone is interested (or has the same problem) it's to do with a crack in a small piece of plastic joining the two tubes connecting the aps and the fan. It's affecting the air pressure or something, and is apparently not that uncommon.

All this for a piece of plastic that costs 58p...
 
Thanks for that, could save a lot of grief.

Presumably its the red part?
Halstead-Hero-cracked-air-part.gif


It's actually, heartwarming, uplifting, marvellous.

To think that anything on a Halstead could cost as little as 58p.
 
nope it's not that part - it's a 5mm hose tee - basically the bit that connects the tubes inside the main burning area and the tubes outside which lead to the APS. Goes through the metal box wall.

i thought 58p was quite pricey - the actual tubes were only 29p...
 

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