Conduit Boxes

[ldoodle]

Are they/can they be made waterproof? Steel or plastic versions.

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MT25BX1B.html

I need to run some SWA under ground to a garden light, taking the cable from an existing garden light (so extending the chain of lights) that's fixed to the house.

The run down the house is quite long and I'd like to avoid exposed SWA running all the way down (and butchering the bottom of the light for the SWA to come out!), so thought about taking some T+E inside the house, down a boxed in void and back out the house just above the DPC.

A surface mount conduit box would have the T+E crimped to the SWA. The distance from the patio to the conduit box is 350mm (if that) so would be far less noticeable. I would mount it as close to behind the soil stack as I can to hide it further.

Or are these a much better choice (but not as good looking): https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK56506.html

The lighting circuit is on a 6a MCB.

Thanks.

 

[bernardgreen]

Plastic junction boxes may start life as being water proof but after a few months in sunlight the covers held on by two screws can warp and the seal is no longer water proof.

Stainless steel conduit boxes with the correct seal remain water proof for years.

http://www.electrix.co.uk/view_products.php?id=87

http://www.electrix.co.uk/view_product_options.php?id=1117

is one of several suppliers.

Metal boxes would need to have an effective earth connection to them.

 

[seasickstevie]

Used loads of galvanized conduit boxes outside with gaskets under the lid years ago and never had any problems. However standards have changed, and I wouldn't feels so happy with the 'IP' compatability of them today.

Plastic conduit box lids are useless if you want it waterproof. They just bend when you tighten (even slightly) the screws.

Never used (knowingly) the stainless steel ones Bernard suggests. I suspect the lids are a lot more rigid.

Far better off with the IP rated adaptable box though. And there's a bit more room in them as well.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Use a WISKA BOX

Don't forget to buy the EARTH CLAMP BAR as well.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I'd like to avoid .. butchering the bottom of the light for the SWA to come out

What about the new light being supplied by the SWA?

A surface mount conduit box would have the T+E crimped to the SWA.

How would you propose glanding the SWA to a PVC conduit box?

 

[plugwash]

T&E is not a cable type I would choose for outdoor use if I could possiblly avoid it, it's not UV resistant and i'm skeptical of how well it will seal even if the correct gland is used.

 

[seasickstevie]

Best use NYY-J cable rather than 'flat' T&E.

Also known as Hi Tuff

 

[securespark]

How would you propose glanding the SWA to a PVC conduit box?

It can be done. And the box filled with gel to make any connections resistant to moisture ingress.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

It can be done.

I'm curious to know how.

 

[bernardgreen]

An alternative might be to terminate the armouring of the SWA onto the box outside and bring the cores and inner sheath of the SWA cable through the wall into the house and have the connections made "in the dry". Similar to this but with the cores and sheath turning a right angle and going out through the back of the box.

Untitled

• bernardgreen
• 10 May 2009
• 17

Then the box does not need to be totally water proof as there are no connections inside it.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Use a WISKA BOX

Don't forget to buy the EARTH CLAMP BAR as well.

 

[ldoodle]

T&E is not a cable type I would choose for outdoor

I'm not planning to.....

 

[ldoodle]

What about the new light being supplied by the SWA?

How would you propose glanding the SWA to a PVC conduit box?

The new light will be a pedestal style mounted to the floor, so the cable would go straight in the bottom (I presume these lights are hollow?).

Not going to use a conduit box now

 

[ban-all-sheds]

The new light will be a pedestal style mounted to the floor, so the cable would go straight in the bottom (I presume these lights are hollow?)

I'm sure it will be, but that does not necessarily mean that there will be anywhere inside it designed to take a SWA gland. You need to get the light first, and see what you have to work with.

 

[ldoodle]

Very good point BAS.