Connecting new Bath taps

[Schmill]

I have 22mm pipe work to feed the hot & cold water to the bath, both of which are coming from their appropriate storage tanks.

I was then going to use this:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/35826...Flexible-Tap-Connector-With-Valve-22mm-x-3-4#
...in order to get both an isolation valve, and also a flexible connection.

However I have since read that the bore on these flexible fixings tends to be only 10-13mm, which makes me wonder if it was pointless providing 22mm feeds to the bath in the first place?

How much of an effect will this have on the flow?
Is it something I should be concerned about?
Is it possible to get flexible connectors that are 22mm to 3/4" BSP, but with a larger bore?

Is this the way that bath taps are normally connected, or should I be looking at doing it a different way?

Thanks

 

[Tibbot]

In your case (tank supplies) you should use 22mm full bore isolators or gate valves, 22mm pipe (plastic if you prefer) and 22mm x 3/4" tap connectors (also available in plastic if you prefer).

 

[TicklyT]

Where possible I prefer to use rigid pipework.
If it's a new bath, fit up the taps with rigid pipe tails attached before installing the tub. extend the tails to somewhere behind the bath panel that will be reasonably accessible after installation. Position the tub , then use the isolators / gate valves to connect your tails to the rest of the plumbing.

Get it right, and there's no laying on the floor and reaching around the back of the tub trying to tighten up tap connectors you can't see.

Hook up the supplies and check for leaks before finally fixing the tub. Just unhook the isolators and haul the whole thing back out to get at any offending joints.

 

[Schmill]

Ok, so I've taken on board the above, and compared what is 'out there' compared with the flexis, and I've come to the conclusion that the flexis really do look too restrictive.

So what I've come up with is this;

One of these connected to the tap:

(http://www.wickes.co.uk/Polyplumb-Straight-Tap-Connector/invt/424976)

Then some of the barrier pipe to create a tail that is 'slightly' flexible, but is full bore;

(http://www.wickes.co.uk/Polyplumb-Barrier-Pipe/invt/424996)


On the end of the 22mm copper that is feeding the bath I am planning to fit one of these FlowFlex full bore isolation valves:

(http://www.screwfix.com/prods/43961/Plumbing/Brassware/22mm-Full-Bore-Isolating-Valve)



What I am not sure on, is whether I can feed the 22mm plastic barrier pipe straight into the compression joint of the isolation valve or not?
I was thinking it might be better to instead have a short section of 22mm COPPER pipe coming out of the top of the isolation valve, and then use an straight 'inline' polyplumb connector to connect that short piece of copper pipe to the section of barrier pipe coming from the bottom of the taps.

Any recommendations?

I've done a dodgy 'paint' drawing below to try and better illustrate what I mean:

Untitled

• Schmill
• 26 Nov 2010
• 1

I'm not not sure how well a normal 'compression' type connection that you would normally use on copper would grip (and seal) against the polyplumb plastic pipe, hence my thinking that maybe I should have copper on both sides of the valve, and then use a straight polyplumb couple to do the transition from copper to plastic?

I'm also presuming that where ever I have an 'end' of plastic pipe I have to insert one fo the pipe stiffner things before I fit a connector to it?
Something like this:

(http://www.wickes.co.uk/Polyplumb-Pipe-Inserts/invt/425001)


Cheers

 

[ajrobb]

My DIY experience is limited to 15mm, but here goes:
Metal compression fittings on barrier pipe need COPPER olives (not brass). Inserts should be used and should be plain (no O-rings).
If you change your mind and use flexible connectors, I'd go for separate isolators rather than combined - it's much easier to slip a flexible connector off a copper stub than to unscrew it from the tap.

 

[Schmill]

Cheers, turns out the full-bore 22mm ios valves from Screwfix use copper olives, and I bought some slightly different pipe & fixings from Wickes, but looks like it should work

 

[John506]

I say 22mm ballafix and a swivel, you can't go wrong !

 

[Schmill]

I say 22mm ballafix and a swivel, you can't go wrong !

Translation please

Presuming a "Ballafix" is an ISO valve?
As for the swivel?