Cooker control unit as spur for additional light circuit?

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Hi guys
Need some advice. I have wall lamps in my bedroom with cables running vertically down to the wall socket below. In order for this to be compliant I need a fused spur. However i can't add any boxes on the wall since i have it covered with panels which I'm not planning to remove. Wall socket is a double socket so I was wondering if i can replace it with a cooker control unit as spur for this light circuit? I would need to replace the fuse to 3Amp but it would solve my problem without need to tear down the panels.
In my mind it should be ok as cooker control unit is a wall socket with a switched fused spur. Or am I talking nonsense?
 
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Why would you want to do that?

Why not wire the lights to a plug (3A fuse) and connect it to the socket?

The socket should also be protected by a RCD.
 
How about a euro module FCU mounted with euro module socket in a double backplate? There would even be room for an extra switch.
 
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How about a euro module FCU mounted with euro module socket in a double backplate? There would even be room for an extra switch.
would the box be the same size? i can't really change much at this stage. i was thinking about single socket and single fused switch but they usually take more space than a double socket
 
managed to find something like this. this is what you've meant?
 
managed to find something like this. this is what you've meant?
Yes, similar to that - but buying the euro modules separately is a lot cheaper than the product in that link.
The frame can also look far nicer - most brands such as MK, etc. have a 4 module frame that matches their usual range.
 
Yes, you can get 4 individual euro modules in a 2 gang box.

A single socket is 2 mods and a switch and the fuse module are 1 mod each.
 
Here are some BG euro modules in our bedroom, using an MK face plate. Two single module light switches and a double module USB charger.

IMG_20240721_005555_MP.jpg
 
Yes, that lot (apart from the switch) should be fine.
What would you like the switch to do?
I only mentioned it as an option earlier, as it isn't strictly necessary (but there is space if you needed it).

do i need to replace the box or is it universal? Im worried that if i do it wont be that easy with the panels in place.
It will fit on a standard double back-box, but you may wish to check the depth of your existing box first - the more space you have to fit your extra connections in, the better.
 
oh yes i actually don't need the switch at all. can do USB instead
 

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