Cooker hood and ignition

[Orac]

Hi,

I'm having my kitchen done and replacing the old combined cooker with an electric oven and gas hob.

As part of the new setup, I have a cooker hood and gas ignition to wire up and have been looking for a good place to put in a FCU.

The ring main is miles away and either way it would need to go over a door or window to get to the area, but what I do have in place is a 45A CCU (2g with socket) and Cooker outlet. Can I spur off this somehow to provide the hood and ignition supply?

Thanks

 

[plugwash]

what power is the oven?

 

[Orac]

Hi, the power is 2200W

Thanks

 

[Steve]

OK, you have a cooker outlet where the cooker circuit terminates, yes? Given there is an isolation switch for this, you can power everything off this. Replace the outlet with a double socket (for the oven and hob) and Run another cable from the back of this double socket up to the cooker hood. Fit a socket behind the cooker hood somewhere.

Note this method is a bit of a bodge, since it leaves inaccessible fuses, however, ovens slide out easily enough! And depending on the type of extractor, theres normally provision for access behind anyway.

Note the circuit protection should be 20 or 32A.

 

[Orac]

Good idea,

Does the buried cable from the new double socket up to the new cooker hood socket need to be 6mm?

If so, will I have trouble connecting this cable at the back of the new double socket?

Thanks

 

[Steve]

Good question. The sparks on here say you should only have one size cable on any circuit. Something you could do is replace the cooker outlet with an FCU, and run the rest in 2.5mm². This limits the power draw on the 2.5mm² cable to 13 amps, but this is plenty for your purposes. It also allows you to use 2.5mm² cable for the rest, being the main objective here!

 

[Orac]

I've had a look, no room behind the kitchen units for normal 2 gang sockets and plugs.


The problem is that the hob ignition needs 3 amp fusing.

The only other thing I can think of is to replace the cooker outlet with 2 fcb's, one 13 amp FCU for the oven and hood. Another 3 amp FCU for the ignition.

Then have 2 flex output plates to feed the appliances.

Any easier way?

 

[Steve]

There will be space behind the oven for a flush-mounted socket and a plug. They always have at least 2 inches behind them, probably more.

I suggest you keep the cooker switch, in case you ever have a funny turn and get an electric hob

By the way, if you decide to go the way you suggest, I suppose you could have the ignition and the hood on one 3 amp FCU, since the ignition consumes practically zero electric, and the fan will be about 120w. Beware 2 single accessories will take up more space than the cooker switch.

 

[securespark]

The ring main is miles away

Hope your volt drop's within spec...

Seriously, it can't be that far away?

 

[Orac]

Hi, here is my kitchen

Quite a way to run the ring out and back just for the hood and ignition

 

[plugwash]

there isn't really a problem with mixing cable sizes as long as all cables are appropriately protected. Just make sure that you keep a record of having done it.

Its a little unconventional but what about using the output terminals of the cooker control unit as the starting point for a ring?

 

[securespark]

If you are going to extend a circuit like a cooker circuit, you need to match the cable used to the size of the CPD. Why not make it a 20A radial?

 

[Orac]

Many thanks for the help, i'll have a look at the layout again tonight.