Cooker Hood Connection
- Thread starter chester
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B
breezer
yes
Alternatively you could use a fused connection unit. As cooker hoods are generally pretty high up it is unlikely you have a plug socket near enough to keep the cable out of the way (gas hob? Could be a fire risk) you might as well install one of these with an appropiately rated fuse.
Would be a good idea to have some confirmation from one the electricians here first[/img]
Would be a good idea to have some confirmation from one the electricians here first[/img]
B
breezer
problem with that is you would have to run a cable in to supply it.
the poster wants to plug it in to cooker unit as it is already there, you can NOT spur from a cooker unit
the poster wants to plug it in to cooker unit as it is already there, you can NOT spur from a cooker unit
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If it's a new kitchen you are fitting, do what I have done and run a spur to the "bridging unit" and plug into that.
Obviously you would have to run a cable and channel it into your wall probably with some retiling over the run. What I am not sure about is the idea of running a flex cable through your cabinets down to a plug at the cooker unit, and running the risk of having a dangly cable right near a naked flame. In order to avoid that you would have to install a plug socket high up near the cooker hood so might make more sense to install one of those switches to avoid someone plugging something else in in the future and setting fire to the cable.
I am a stickler for neatness so smashing a few tiles in order to have a seamless installation is what I would do
But like Breezer says, no spurring from cooker units so it would have to be from a point on the ring.
I am a stickler for neatness so smashing a few tiles in order to have a seamless installation is what I would do
But like Breezer says, no spurring from cooker units so it would have to be from a point on the ring.
The spur I have fitted is 8" from the ceiling so no bugger will be plugging a kettle into it
breezer said:
Go on then, I'll bite - if I promise not to chant about looking for logic and reason in the wiring regs, what's so precious about a 4mm/6mm radial circuit that has a cooker outlet plate on it that means you can't spur off it, whereas if all it had was 13A sockets you could spur?
B
breezer
no one was meant to "bite" apart from the regs, have you tried putting two 6mm cable in the same terminal? since when running a spur you MUST use the same size cable
Oh OK - so it's a mechanical "you are not able to" rather than a regulatory "you are not allowed to"?
2 x 6mm would be a bit of a squeeze into the terminals, I must admit. But if it was a 4mm circuit (e.g. cooker unit used to supply a 4-5kW oven, not an entire electric cooker), presumably there would be no objection to continuing the 4mm cable to other sockets, or to FCUs for thinner legs for hoods, extractor fans, lights etc?
2 x 6mm would be a bit of a squeeze into the terminals, I must admit. But if it was a 4mm circuit (e.g. cooker unit used to supply a 4-5kW oven, not an entire electric cooker), presumably there would be no objection to continuing the 4mm cable to other sockets, or to FCUs for thinner legs for hoods, extractor fans, lights etc?
B
breezer
no, thats only 2/3 of what i said, i did say apart from the regs
and now i am "biting" at what you said lets just agree the regs are confusing at times
and now i am "biting" at what you said lets just agree the regs are confusing at times
OK - thanks for clarifying.
i actually have 4 socket extension sat on top of my cabinets with halogen lights and a television plgeed into them. i was therefore wondering whether i couls use one of the spares up there to plug the cooker hood in for ease arther than having to do any wiring. if i can use this what fuse would i need in the plug?
thanks for help by the way
thanks for help by the way
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Breezer, Ban et al.......
Isn't it simply the case that being a radial circuit, you cannot tap off for anything else? That's how I understand it. Like a shower circuit. It's a radial only intended for feeding one appliance and nothing else.
PS Last time I plugged a kettle into a socket 8" off the ceiling, the fuse blew! Ooops!
Was it one of yours????
Isn't it simply the case that being a radial circuit, you cannot tap off for anything else? That's how I understand it. Like a shower circuit. It's a radial only intended for feeding one appliance and nothing else.
PS Last time I plugged a kettle into a socket 8" off the ceiling, the fuse blew! Ooops!
Was it one of yours????
B
breezer
chester as small a fuse as is required buy the hood, probably 3 A
you cant tap off a shower or cooker cct becasue you wont get another cable the same size into the connections, and both these appliances are drawing Maximum load the cable will carry.
in theory you could plug as many "quad" sockets into each as you like, so its one (4 sockets) 4 into each socket (16 sockets now, you get the idea)
if you were to plug something in too big (16 toasters) the fuse would blow,
here comes THAT word again, the regs say you cant do it on a normal radial because you only have one fuse (at the board) but by using "quads" each has two fuses (plug and quad itself) so each progressive "quad" has its own fuse just like using a bunch of fcu's
you cant tap off a shower or cooker cct becasue you wont get another cable the same size into the connections, and both these appliances are drawing Maximum load the cable will carry.
in theory you could plug as many "quad" sockets into each as you like, so its one (4 sockets) 4 into each socket (16 sockets now, you get the idea)
if you were to plug something in too big (16 toasters) the fuse would blow,
here comes THAT word again, the regs say you cant do it on a normal radial because you only have one fuse (at the board) but by using "quads" each has two fuses (plug and quad itself) so each progressive "quad" has its own fuse just like using a bunch of fcu's
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