Cooker Hood No Power

[gjw123]

Hi All

My cooker hood hasn't worked since moving into my place and I can't seem to work out why...

I've attached some pictures of the current setup of it. Three pictures are of the inside of the hood and also the grey wire that leads through the wall to the other side (the room with the ducting).

In terms of the pictures of the room with the ducting, there's an extraction fan / ducting on the wall in the room that backs onto the cooker hood. The switch in the picture closest to the ducting manually turns on a fan (ducting). I'm not sure what the socket further up closer to the ceiling does (or if either of those are even related to the cooker hood). I have just shown them as they're on the wall the extraction fan leads to and at least one controls a fan or some sort there.

Would anyone be able to point me in the right direction to diagnosing the issue & fixing it?

In terms of equipment, I have a Two Pole Voltage and Continuity Tester and can get other bits if needed.

Thanks!

 

[ETAF]

1st thing would be to check you are getting a voltage from the source

The switch in the picture closest to the ducting manually turns on a fan (ducting).

So the extractor fan works OK from that switch ???

Make and model of the extractor hood - looks like an IKEA model
can you show a photo of it in postiion and type
HOO C10 S

that model comes up on all sorts of website suppliers and parts

Do you have a mulitmeter ?

 

[gjw123]

1st thing would be to check you are getting a voltage from the source

So the extractor fan works OK from that switch ???

Make and model of the extractor hood - looks like an IKEA model
can you show a photo of it in postiion and type
HOO C10 S

that model comes up on all sorts of website suppliers and parts

Do you have a mulitmeter ?

So in terms of that switch when I turn it on, it makes a fan noise, but that doesn't turn on the cooker hood, which I presume has no power!

I've attached a picture of the cooker hood head on!

I have a two pole voltage and continuity tester coming tomorrow.

 

[ETAF]

what controls are on the hood itself
looked at a few manuals for the HOO C10 S

Whirlpool Spares, Parts & Accessories

Buy Whirlpool spares for your cooker, dishwasher, fridge, freezer, tumble dryer and washing machine. Authorised Whirlpool Dealer & Next Working Day Delivery available

www.4whirlpool.co.uk

is the motor and I assume thats the blue plug we can see on one of the images
and thats NOT the motor/fan you can hear start up

also shown here under IKEA heading , but still whirlpool

Ikea HOO C10S (857942815002) Cooker Hood Spares | eSpares

www.espares.co.uk

where do the wires from that BLUE connector go to ?
Be careful as it could be LIVE

 

[gjw123]

what controls are on the hood itself
looked at a few manuals for the HOO C10 S

Whirlpool Spares, Parts & Accessories

Buy Whirlpool spares for your cooker, dishwasher, fridge, freezer, tumble dryer and washing machine. Authorised Whirlpool Dealer & Next Working Day Delivery available

www.4whirlpool.co.uk

is the motor and I assume thats the blue plug we can see on one of the images
and thats NOT the motor/fan you can hear start up

also shown here under IKEA heading , but still whirlpool

Ikea HOO C10S (857942815002) Cooker Hood Spares | eSpares

www.espares.co.uk

where do the wires from that BLUE connector go to ?
Be careful as it could be LIVE

I've places a picture of the cooker hood controls here.

Nope, when the fan goes off it certainly doesn't appear to be that! The fan itself is within the duct (where the arrow on the picture I've attached is).

In terms of the connector, this appears to go into the motor connector and then presumably into the wall behind. I'm unsure if the grey wire shown by the cooker hood is any of the two grey wires on the other side (duct side).

 

[Murdochcat]

Some muppets conceal the fused spur in the chimney of the cooker hood so you might have to take the chimney off to find it

 

[Ragnar_AT]

Is that two fans in line, one in the hood itself and one in the duct to the outside? Why would you do that?

 

[ETAF]

do you have a mulitmeter and know how to use - so you can check the power going to the hood

In terms of the connector, this appears to go into the motor connector and then presumably into the wall behind. I'm unsure if the grey wire shown by the cooker hood is any of the two grey wires on the other side (duct side).

looks more like it goes to the control switches , and then a cable comes down to the motor - difficult to see exactly - BUT you would need to see where that greyish wire goes - IF not to the switches - THEN where does it get power from - i have only dealt with 2 hoods , other than my own for people and often conencted to the lighting circuits , one via a spur , others directly
BUT I'm just a DIYer NOT trade

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Is that two fans in line, one in the hood itself and one in the duct to the outside? Why would you do that?

I suspect the one in the hood has failed, and maybe been replaced by an inline one.

 

[gjw123]

Some muppets conceal the fused spur in the chimney of the cooker hood so you might have to take the chimney off to find it

So I've taken the chimney off and can see a fused socket up there! Picture attached...

 

[gjw123]

do you have a mulitmeter and know how to use - so you can check the power going to the hood

looks more like it goes to the control switches , and then a cable comes down to the motor - difficult to see exactly - BUT you would need to see where that greyish wire goes - IF not to the switches - THEN where does it get power from - i have only dealt with 2 hoods , other than my own for people and often conencted to the lighting circuits , one via a spur , others directly
BUT I'm just a DIYer NOT trade

I have a two pole voltage & vontinuity tester. The greyish wire goes into a fused switch which I found once I removed the chimney!

Picture attached.

 

[ETAF]

ok, so first thing would be to remove the fuse and see if its blown , that switch is ON , unless wired up wrongly

 

[gjw123]

ok, so first thing would be to remove the fuse and see if its blown , that switch is ON , unless wired up wrongly

I've removed it and put my continuity tester on each side of it and it's making zero noise... I'm presuming this means it's blown?

It's a 5a - would it be worth replacing like for like, or with a different amp fuse?

 

[ETAF]

like for like
i would expect that to blow if a problem with the hood
so have a spare one

 

[gjw123]

like for like
i would expect that to blow if a problem with the hood
so have a spare one

Thanks - I'll get a few spares! I keep seeing online in general that most people put a 3a in... is there any advantage if this over the 5a and vice versa?