Coolant flush and tuning car up

[andyj941]

Hi just to let you know I changed the spark plugs on both cars (both 00/01 fiestas) relatively easily in the end with a spark plug spanner and metal bar for leverage. Thanks for your help.

As for the coolant, I've decided to flush the system in both cars and replace it with new antifreeze/water, seen as as far as I know this has never been done. In my car, the 2001 flight, the expansion tank is badly stained by orange rust - is it possible to remove this somehow? I plan to empty the system following the haynes manual and possibly use speedflush or something like that to help. Any other tips to follow when doing this?

Also since I've done the whole list of routine maintenance procedures I was speaking to a friend at work who recommended additives like Redex to clean the insides of the inner-workings of the car. I plan on treating them to one or two special treatments like that - any advice as to what on the halfords website is worthwhile? Thanks

 

[andyj941]

And also, I've got some gunk aerosol degreaser to clean the engine bay as I feel its time to clean it up and hose it down. Any tips as to how to go about this and is it ok to use the hose to blast away any dirt? Cheers

 

[JohnD]

if the expansion tank for the rad is one of those big plastic bottles, you may find you can take it out and give it a scrub (inside and out) in the kitchen sink

I did that with mine when I changed the radiator last year, it was fairly easy, and it looks better. the new antifreeze will contain an inhibitor which should prevent future corrosion. it does no harm to fill it with the "cold winter" concentration as hopefully you will not be losing it or refilling it for years (unless you get a leak). if you have air con, try to find an antifreeze that is not green, since green spills can be mistaken for air con leaks.

Have a look at the plastic pipes as well, they may need replacing.

You will need a long-handled brush for the degreaser. there is one sold for painting radiators that you can get in DIY or painting shops. For the easy bits I use a soft nylon hand brush as used with a dustpan. The aerosol stuff is rather expensive, you can get engine cleaner in big plastic bottles. I use the Gunk one that you can mix with water (it is cleaner, easier and does not smell like the traditional Gunk. you can identify it because the instructions say mix with water. it is like super-strong fairy liquid). Rinse of with clean water.

If you have old, hardened greasy grit, you can soften it with paraffin before washing. I have only had to do this under motorbike engines. A modern car should not be oily. Keep it away from any bearings or transmission joints as it can wash out grease.

Avoid hosing the engine if you can. Modern engines are well-protected against water but you will regret it if you get water in the ignition or the air intake. Park it with the open bonnet facing the sun before you start to dry it out easily. I hose mine occasionally but I can avoid or rectify wet problems. Don't use a pressure-washer. Wash off dirt with your brush and the cleaner, don't expect the hose to get it off.

Do the inside of the bonnet as well - it may be very dirty. Cover the engine first to prevent water and dirt falling on it.

When you think it is clean, dry it off with cotton rags. If they come away dirty youy will know it is not clean. Spray wire connections and the fanbelt with WD40. If you want to you can use Armoral on a rag and it will bring up the rubber hoses and plastic parts like new.

Once it is clean, just give it a wipe over with a rag and car shampoo mixed with water to keep it clean in future. You can use your long-handled brush for the difficult bits.

 

[andyj941]

Thanks John for your advice. In the manual it says I'll need a new thermostat cover gasket and sealing ring for when I remove the thermostat to flush the engine of coolant. Where would the best place to get these be?

 

[JohnD]

find a local motor factor. they will have, or can get, parts for any modern car

sometimes consumables like oil are cheaper in large supermarkets or DIY sheds or Halfords.

You main dealer will have genuine parts, this will usually be the most expensive way to get bits.

 

[andyj941]

Excuse my niaveity! In the Haynes manual it says that "the radiator should be flushed independently of the engine to avoid unnecessary contamination".

I don't fancy taking the thermostat out so can I just drain it from the radiator and still flush out all the old stuff from the system with water from a garden hose?

 

[JohnD]

never heard that before

you mention rust stains so I think you ought to use a radiator cleaning chemical after you have squirted out the loose stuff.

 

[andyj941]

OK to flush the radiator, fill with water then run the engine until the thermostat opens and it dilutes the coolant left in the rest of the system? And repeat this over and over until everything is removed? I'm guessing that's the idea.

OK do you have any recommended products to do this with? It's only mine that seems to be rusty with flakes in it. Could use holts radflush but I don't know how effective that would be to remove the rust.

 

[JohnD]

when I've done it (not needed to recently) it has been usual to remove the stat and add radflush or similar.

If you take off the rad bottom hose and the cap on the top you can hose the rad through after the cleaning.

p.s. you can get all sorts of interesting things at Frosts

http://www.frost.co.uk/