I have been told that our Corda Pebble Gas fire requires the oxypilot to be changed every 12 months which would explain why every year it goes out after 10 minutes - is this right or are we being ripped off??
Corda Gas Fire - Oxypilot
- Thread starter crazycray
- Start date
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Servicing the Fire:
All servicing must be carried out by an authorised person
Before service work commences, ensure that the fire is isolated from the gas supply and that it is cool to touch. Remove the front trim panels, the fender and the coal set and store in a safe place. Isolate from the gas supply and disconnect at the inlet union. Remove the burner tray assembly by taking out the four securing screws and nuts and the locknut on the slide control bellcrank (slide models only). If the firebox is to be removed, take out the two screws securing the box to the fireplace located in the base panel (if used) and release the fixing wires (if fitted). Slide out the firebox carefully onto a dust sheet or similar to protect the hearth from damage. It is very important that when the firebox is reinstalled the seal strip is inspected for damage. This componsent is avilable from the manufacturer if a replacement is necessary. When reinstalling the firebox the installation instruction in this booklet must be adhered to (i.e. leak tests, spillage and sealing requirements)
The pilot can be removed by removing the securing nut accessible at the front of the burner tray assembly. The ignition lead should now be removed from the electrode and the termocouple lead from the rear of the gas tap. Finally carefully loosen and remove the gas inlet tube to th epilot taking care not to crush the olive or pipe. The pilot can now be lifted through the assembly taking care not to damage any other pipework or electrical harnesses and replaced as necessary.
The burner can be removed by removing the three screws securing the burner to the lower burner tray
The gas tap is held in position with one locking nut. Disconnect the pilot gas tube and thermocouple. Disconnect the gas inlet and outlet tubes from the control and carefully manoeuvre the tap assembly away from the tray.
The slide gas tap can be removed by releasing the three gas lines and thermocouple/interrupter device from the unit. Release the screw from the lower end of the bellcrank/valve mechanism.
All servicing must be carried out by an authorised person
Before service work commences, ensure that the fire is isolated from the gas supply and that it is cool to touch. Remove the front trim panels, the fender and the coal set and store in a safe place. Isolate from the gas supply and disconnect at the inlet union. Remove the burner tray assembly by taking out the four securing screws and nuts and the locknut on the slide control bellcrank (slide models only). If the firebox is to be removed, take out the two screws securing the box to the fireplace located in the base panel (if used) and release the fixing wires (if fitted). Slide out the firebox carefully onto a dust sheet or similar to protect the hearth from damage. It is very important that when the firebox is reinstalled the seal strip is inspected for damage. This componsent is avilable from the manufacturer if a replacement is necessary. When reinstalling the firebox the installation instruction in this booklet must be adhered to (i.e. leak tests, spillage and sealing requirements)
The pilot can be removed by removing the securing nut accessible at the front of the burner tray assembly. The ignition lead should now be removed from the electrode and the termocouple lead from the rear of the gas tap. Finally carefully loosen and remove the gas inlet tube to th epilot taking care not to crush the olive or pipe. The pilot can now be lifted through the assembly taking care not to damage any other pipework or electrical harnesses and replaced as necessary.
The burner can be removed by removing the three screws securing the burner to the lower burner tray
The gas tap is held in position with one locking nut. Disconnect the pilot gas tube and thermocouple. Disconnect the gas inlet and outlet tubes from the control and carefully manoeuvre the tap assembly away from the tray.
The slide gas tap can be removed by releasing the three gas lines and thermocouple/interrupter device from the unit. Release the screw from the lower end of the bellcrank/valve mechanism.
No mention of replacing the oxy-pilot every year then? Normally needs a quick blast of air through the hole in the pilot assy to clear any fluff/dust build-up.
Has the fire actually been serviced by a CORGI who has carried out the correct checks on the flue, etc.?
Has the fire actually been serviced by a CORGI who has carried out the correct checks on the flue, etc.?
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yes - every year (since 2001 when it was installed) we have had to have them back as it always 'pops off' after 10 mins. I had a different company in who took it all apart vacuumed it etc (meanwhile breaking a part of it - the bit the pebbles sit on but another matter!) - and it still doesn't work. So I rang up someone who said it will happen as it has to have the oxypilot changed every year......... seems ludicrous - anyone in Bedfordshire who is qualified I would be happy for them to come and investigate for me!
Unless oxypilot manufacturers have some revolutionary design I can't see how they could produce and oxypilot that fails after 10 mins after a year in service. All though you might pay £30.00 for the part they are knocked out for just a couple of quid.
Dependent on the amount of fluff on the carpet and how carefully the air port is hoovered out I can't see why an oxypilot would not give 5 to 10 years without a problem.
Are you sure the flue is OK, afterall the device is designed to shut down the fire in case of problems. Is the gas supply to the fire undersized? This would cause a reduced pilot flame size and possible shutoff.
What do the manufactures have to say?
Dependent on the amount of fluff on the carpet and how carefully the air port is hoovered out I can't see why an oxypilot would not give 5 to 10 years without a problem.
Are you sure the flue is OK, afterall the device is designed to shut down the fire in case of problems. Is the gas supply to the fire undersized? This would cause a reduced pilot flame size and possible shutoff.
What do the manufactures have to say?
Mmmmm - interesting one that. My initial thoughts would be blocked pilot injector resulting in small pilot flame then, when the main burner lights the surrounding draft moves the flame away from the pilot tip hence dropping the thermocouple out. Some pilots have a filter in them which does need regular cleaning/replacement.
As GG said may well be a problem with the flue.
Have you had to have the service company back after every service or has this just started happening? And after they have returned is the fire then OK for another year?
As GG said may well be a problem with the flue.
Have you had to have the service company back after every service or has this just started happening? And after they have returned is the fire then OK for another year?
had them out every year - they replace something and then the next year same again.
I am really at a loss as to why we should be paying out year on year and now am thinking of replacing it. We never had problems before with the gas fires we have had - it's only since having this open pebble type. I don't understand all the techno talk - just need some sort of reasoning!
I am really at a loss as to why we should be paying out year on year and now am thinking of replacing it. We never had problems before with the gas fires we have had - it's only since having this open pebble type. I don't understand all the techno talk - just need some sort of reasoning!
I would be looking at the chimney/ flue/builder's opening (not his backside) for defects.
Typical fault when any of above is incorrect. Similar problem some months ago. Turned out the builder's opening was open to the cellar. Fire would run and then turn itself off 10-15 minutes later. Sealed the fireplace and no more problems.
Typical fault when any of above is incorrect. Similar problem some months ago. Turned out the builder's opening was open to the cellar. Fire would run and then turn itself off 10-15 minutes later. Sealed the fireplace and no more problems.
thank you I will try them on Monday.
Hi there,
An oxypilot is a safety device !!!. It is designed to cut off EXACTLY as you describe.
As the air in the room is consumed over time, the flame on the oxypilot burner is designed to lift off and miss the thermocouple, thereby cutting off the fire.
It is very possible that the pilot is actually doing what it's supposed to do, Ie cut the fire off after 10 minutes of burning of the fire, as the oxygen levels have depleted.
The first thing you should be doing is to ensure there is adequate ventilation and that the flue is working properly.
It is a common misconception even amongst gas engineers that gas fires do not require ventilation, which they do. It is assumed that rooms have a certain ammount of adventitious ventilation which normally covers it, but in a tight room, then purpose provided ventilation may also be required.
If the ventilation and flue ARE is in order, you need to Check the flame to ensure it is heating the thermocouple properly..if it's only just touching, then the pilot needs a good clean out. Unfortunately modern oxypilots can't be taken to bits, so if it is choked at the injector, then a new pilot is indeed required.
An oxypilot is a safety device !!!. It is designed to cut off EXACTLY as you describe.
As the air in the room is consumed over time, the flame on the oxypilot burner is designed to lift off and miss the thermocouple, thereby cutting off the fire.
It is very possible that the pilot is actually doing what it's supposed to do, Ie cut the fire off after 10 minutes of burning of the fire, as the oxygen levels have depleted.
The first thing you should be doing is to ensure there is adequate ventilation and that the flue is working properly.
It is a common misconception even amongst gas engineers that gas fires do not require ventilation, which they do. It is assumed that rooms have a certain ammount of adventitious ventilation which normally covers it, but in a tight room, then purpose provided ventilation may also be required.
If the ventilation and flue ARE is in order, you need to Check the flame to ensure it is heating the thermocouple properly..if it's only just touching, then the pilot needs a good clean out. Unfortunately modern oxypilots can't be taken to bits, so if it is choked at the injector, then a new pilot is indeed required.
N
namsag
Alexcsp .And that is why gas engineers do spillage tests with all doors and windows closed ,it takes away any misconception about wether additional ventilation is req . Basic
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