Corner shelf idea's?

[kaseryn]

I've been thikning of using some old offcuts to make an L-shaped shelf in a corner of the kitchen and it occurs to me that, if i join these across the corner with dowels or biscuits on a 45deg cut (or whatever it works out) a lot of the shelf becomes self supporting because of the shape. So does anyone have some crafty ways to hang it? Would like to make it floating myself if poss..

idea 1: i thought.. could rebate a bit along the back edge where it could sit on a row of screws that then wouldnt show.. then, it would only need to be prevented from lifting up right on the inside of the turn, right? So like a piece of angle fillet embedded in that corner (of the wall) would fix it.. or not?

 

[ladylola]

Depending upon the thickness of the material you could try metal dowels (allthread, or the like)fitted into the edge and into the wall and secured by resin (hilti type of stuff).

 

[big-all]

joining at right angles will give you a stronger join and will allow you to slide both portions onto the "pegs"

i assume your talking 20mm timber!!

use biscuits and and a slot to allow sideways movement onto the "pegs"

assuming a 4" wide shelve knock in panel pins 10" appart and 12mm proud along the back edge that faces the wall
line up accuratley with the wall
tap firmly making shure the marks are fully visible high light the marks
drill using a 7mm masonery bit 50mm holes
brown plugs use no12x4" screws cut off the heads

remove the pins drill 8mm holes into the pin holes fill the holes with foaming wood glue or no nails

place the board with the slot for buscuits on the face in first so the other peice can slot on as it mounts the screws

this assumes a solid wall

 

[kaseryn]

It's nearer 40mm, but anyway..


I see what you mean about the 90deg join. I thought an evenly divided angle would be more attractive. As it is, i've already made the cut .. which I think makes the pegs/ idea unworkable in a way it wouldn't have been if i'd cut it at 90. Then again.. either way it seems i'd be struggling to make the join and mount the pegs at the same time? A slot in the second piece lets that get a bit nearer the screwholes before it makes the corner join.. but it's that last bit i can see really forcing the piece thats in already.. or damaging the back holes trying to squeeze on sideways.... right?

 

[kaseryn]

Another thing.. on cutting the biscuit slots the jointer generated an obscene amount of smoke. The wood had been indoors quite a while so was pretty dry.. and i uderstand it is a new blade. I kept it flat as i cut.. is this normal? Twas end grain too..

 

[big-all]

you cannot insert into holes in two directions at the same time thus the need for a slot

40mm wide shelves or 40mm thick!!

blade on backwards or moving far far to slowly

 

[kaseryn]

right.. thats what i mean, see what you mean about a slot on one of the pieces now then the blade being on wrong is a good call, will check that.. and they're 40mm thick..

 

[kaseryn]

bang on.. blade on backwards.. but.. it's how i got it!

 

[kaseryn]

For the slot.. all my router bits seem to be imperial sizes.. any idea what should be a good match for size 10 screwheads? They're quicksilver pozi's if thats makes any diff. Love the general idea you've come up with here btw.. i think i'll be using it again in the future.. home made invisible fixings, brilliant!

 

[big-all]

you only slot the join between the shelve in the corner
once the bit with the slot at the back edge is secured to the wall you insert the buiscuts or tounge into that slot
the other bit then has a smooth passage at right angle to the wall onto the screws or rods and buiscut
if you havent got any buiscuts cut a bit off 4mm ply or even hardboard[3.2mm]and use

how wide are your shelves[front to back]!!

 

[kaseryn]

The whole piece is already made up so i'm gonna have to have the glued screws/pegs along the longer length, then i'll rout a channel along the back of the other for same to rest on on that side... shelfs around 150mm deep

 

[big-all]

6"wide not a lot off support with 2" whats going on the shelves!!!

ok take your shelve draw 45% lines to match the mitre parralell on both halves
drill the holes at the 45% in the wall to match the the holes in the shelve

and i would go for somthing about 10mm about 8" long so when at a 45% angle you get nearer half shelve penetration

 

[kaseryn]

OK firstly, you're treading a thin line and in all good conscience I really ought to be reporting you to the Royal Society for the Prevention of Abuse to Exclamation Marks! Secondly... the 45% holes.. that's just brilliant.. like that very much! As for weight.. loads etc, i was thinking that the load on the front/face edge would mostly be transferred to the mitre and that with its intended use that would be sufficient along with some good fix at the very back.. (2x20 biscuits in the join) not needed to penetrate much. Its about 700mm on one length and 300mm on the other, and only for a few kitchen bittles.. olive oil etc. Thoughts?

 

[big-all]

it will more than likley to be absolutly fine as long as the join is strong
it will act like a triangle and be very strong
i have a bit off 6x1 formed into a 33"x33" L loaded up with planes and other tools sitting on the top off the picture rail with only one 35mm panel pin in the corner stopping it falling off

 

[kaseryn]

hehe.. yep.. the geometry really helps doesn't it? love that idea of the angled screws.. seems obvious thing to do once it's been pointed out.. match the direction it'll be mounted, will whack a good few of those on both planks and save hassle of routing.. thanks again, great help