Hi,
Couple of questions arising as I try and get my system to heat all the rads:
1. I've checked that each rad does actually work by making each the only 'open' rad. Now trying to balance system. Is it vital that I do this from cold as I'm not having much luck doing it from hot?
Whilst on balancing, I see that this is achieved by adjusting the LSV rather than the control valve. To the layman, this seems odd. Surely, if I want to reduce hot water at rads close to the heat store in favour of rads further away, why don't I just reduce the control valve aperture? Guess I'm missing something obvious to others.........!
2. Re. the boiler (Potterton Profile 100e, serving 13 rads), I'm assuming that this is working ok as I had what look like reasonable temperatures at inflow / outflow as I tested each rad individually: with boiler set at 5 out of (max) 6, I achieved inflow range between 40c and 52c and outflow between 30c and 44c. Does this suggest that the boiler is working fairly efficiently?
3. I'm looking for system bleed points apart from rad bleed valves (checked no air there). Are the only other bleed points likely to be:
(i) the pump - although this is really difficult to see, let alone do anything to!
(ii) a pipe next to my hot water tank which ends in a little red cap? Undoing the cap seemingly does nothing, although a little way beneath it is a knurled thingy. Is this meant to be unscrewed at all?
Many thanks,
Mike.
Couple of questions arising as I try and get my system to heat all the rads:
1. I've checked that each rad does actually work by making each the only 'open' rad. Now trying to balance system. Is it vital that I do this from cold as I'm not having much luck doing it from hot?
Whilst on balancing, I see that this is achieved by adjusting the LSV rather than the control valve. To the layman, this seems odd. Surely, if I want to reduce hot water at rads close to the heat store in favour of rads further away, why don't I just reduce the control valve aperture? Guess I'm missing something obvious to others.........!
2. Re. the boiler (Potterton Profile 100e, serving 13 rads), I'm assuming that this is working ok as I had what look like reasonable temperatures at inflow / outflow as I tested each rad individually: with boiler set at 5 out of (max) 6, I achieved inflow range between 40c and 52c and outflow between 30c and 44c. Does this suggest that the boiler is working fairly efficiently?
3. I'm looking for system bleed points apart from rad bleed valves (checked no air there). Are the only other bleed points likely to be:
(i) the pump - although this is really difficult to see, let alone do anything to!
(ii) a pipe next to my hot water tank which ends in a little red cap? Undoing the cap seemingly does nothing, although a little way beneath it is a knurled thingy. Is this meant to be unscrewed at all?
Many thanks,
Mike.
