cracked drain/gulley after patio dig

[stevebootes]

We've just broken up our concrete patio in preparation for replacement with paving slabs. This is all new to me for please excuse the lack of knowledge and incorrect naming of parts..

The pipe leading to the drain where the kitchen waste goes is cracked, looks like it might have been that way for a little while, but our breaker won't have helped I guess. Anyway, what is it that I need to replace this? I've seen gulleys and traps online but nothing seems to quite match what I have!

I'm going to dig it out a little more later to have a better look. I diverted the kitchen sink waste straight into the drain so not so much of it was leaking into the ground, hence the different before & after pictures.

Thanks

 

[Nige F]

It's a hepworth /supersleve back inlet gulley and down a bit will be a coupling in plastic replace with a SH 1 clay hopper plain supersleve 100 house drain

 

[stevebootes]

It's a hepworth /supersleve back inlet gulley and down a bit will be a coupling in plastic replace with a SH 1 clay hopper plain supersleve 100 house drain

Thanks. Like this? https://www.mytub.co.uk/supersleve-plain-hopper-sq-100mm-sh1-product-574127
And no special reason for the two inlets (as in picture 2) in my broken one - I can feed both the waste pipes into the single hopper ok?

 

[Nige F]

That's the one - both wastes into it through holes cut in a plastic grid in the top, no problem. Thousands done like that.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Yes, both wastes can go into the one hopper, although I'd make sure you get a plastic grid, (easier to cut holes through!), and I'd put another 45 bend on the white waste to angle it straight into the new hopper. Both pipes need to discharge below the grid ideally. Makes it slightly more sanitary and avoids build up of crud on the grid, especially from kitchen sinks etc. (Nige beat me to it!)

 

[stevebootes]

Great, I'll see if I can find a local stockist.
Thanks for the quick responses Nige & Hugh.

 

[jjpearce05]

ÙùuuÙùu

 

[Nige F]

ÙùuuÙùu

Indeed so

 

[stevebootes]

Ok, have the SH1 hopper but it's not a tight fit - should it be? Do I need a new coupling?

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

I would replace the collar as a matter of course, they should be a fairly tight fit but reusing an old seal never works, the gasket has stretched and set to suit the old fitting. If you cut through the plastic lip at the end of the existing collar with a small hacksaw, it should allow you to pull the collar off then remove the old gasket from the pipe without too much difficulty and avoid damage to the next section below. Be careful though if cut edges are present, clay pipe can be as sharp as glass.

 

[stevebootes]

Something like this?
https://www.mytub.co.uk/supersleve-coupling-100mm-sc1-1-product-574080

 

[Agile]

I thought the whole idea of a "b I g" was to create a separate water seal for the back inlet to prevent smells etc.?

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Yes Steve, although I'd be tempted to remove the old collar first just to check. On the side will be some large letters moulded into the plastic, either 'Hepsleve' or Supersleve'. Supersleve superseded Hepsleve, and there is a slight size difference. If the original drain is Hepsleve it just means you'll need a Hepsleve to Supersleve collar as opposed to a Supersleve to Supersleve as in your link.

Tony, not to my knowledge. It just means there is facility to make a connection to the gulley without going through the grid, and means grid is easily removable to allow rodding/jetting access if required.