Cutting kitchen worktops

[Luton Pete]

I am about to fit new worktops in a new kitchen, can anyone tell me which blade etc i should have in my jigsaw etc. Also i need to cut the hole for the sink. Help needed.
Thank you.
Luton Pete

 

[Scrit]

If you have a reasonable quality jigsaw with orbit stop, then use a Bosch T101BR (downcut) blade and hang on. Otherwise turn the orbit off and install a fine upcut blade and work slowly. Either way seal the edges when you're done with something like silicone sealant

Scrit

 

[mother]

or of course cut upside down. a lot easier with body grip jigsaw.

 

[Scrit]

or of course cut upside down. a lot easier with body grip jigsaw.

The problem with trying to do a cut out that way is that for sinks in particular you are normally sawing through not only the carcass, but also the "nailer" or stretcher across the front of the carcass in order to get the required clearances. That can mean fitting the top, hauling it out turning over and cutting out, turning it back over, replacing and positioning it, marking out the cuts in the nailer(s), removing the top again (because when you cut the nailer the base of the jigsaw will need some support), then cutting-out the clearance in the nailer(s) and finally replacing the top again, all the while hoping you haven't chipped-out that nice new mason's mitre joint you so carefully cut........ My way is a lot less work and effort. Because hobs and sinks always have a lip, with orbit off on the jigsaw and a fine blade the chip-outs will be minimal and in any case will be hidden when you install the sink/hob in any case.

Scrit

 

[jonkem]

The sink should have a 10mm lip so there's no problem with using a medium "upcutter" and sealing the cut-out. Downcutters are hard work with 40mm laminates and much more expensive than upcutters.

 

[tall paul]

Downcutters are hard work with 40mm laminates .

got to disagree with you there mate if the blade is new it zips through the worktop with eaze,its only when the downcut blades become blunt when they become hard work... you can also use pva glue or impact adhesive to seal the worktops before you fit the sink,which also allows you to have a brew as they cure

 

[^woody^]

A jiqsaw is OK for the sink or hob recess - even with a normal up-cut blade, but I would not cut an edge with one - as the blade can vary slightly on the vertical stroke, so the cut is both uneven and not square to the top.

For an edge cut, use a hand or powered saw for a rough cut if necessary, but use a router to do the cut to the line - and run this down a straight-edge guide so that the cut is dead on and smooth, and the edge trim fits perfect.

 

[Symptoms]

Pete - we always use a circular saw 'plunged' through the worktop and only use a jig saw to 'finish off' the cuts in the corners (actually a handsaw for the corners if often quicker). A c/saw, properly fenced will always give a straight, vertical cut and with the correct blade fitted, no chipping.

 

[damson]

Sorry to jump in - but what would you recommend if you want to cut a curved end to a worktop - if a jigsaw should be used any tips on keeping the blade upright and true so that the cut is square?

many thanks

 

[damson]

 

[Symptoms]

damson - any edge that can be seen should be 'finished' using a router & a template (remember the sink/hob cut-out edges won't be 'cos they'll be covered by the sink/hob lipping, so they can be sawn - described above in my earlier post). By all means use a jigsaw to to remove the excess (it doesn't really matter if the blade doesn't cut vertically - and it won't), but leave at least 10 - 12mm oversize for the router to cut away. We wouldn't bother with the jigsaw - we go straight-in with the router and with the w/t properly jigged-up.

 

[damson]

brilliant thanks symptoms. What size / shape /type of router bit should I use? And I assume by properly jigged you mean create a support system which can guide the router around the required curve?

many thanks for all your answers today!

 

[Bilioustrumpstaine]

Have a look at this site which may help,

http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/index.php

Go get jiggy with it

 

[Symptoms]

damson - kitchen worktop work = 1/2" plunge router only (not 1/4") + carbide tipped, 2 flute, 60mm long (or 50mm), 1/2" cutter (for some reason also known as a worktop cutter), complete with 30mm guide bush. You can make your own templates for all situations (curves, etc) but best bet for w/t work are proprietary worktop jigs. You can hire this tackle but watch-out for knackered jigs (sometimes have 'nicks' hacked-out by earlier users that'll throw your cuts way out - so check before leaving the hire shop). Hiring is probably the thing to do if you're only going to do one kitchen 'cos a decent router with plenty of grunt, say 1000W to 2000W, is going to set you back a couple of hundred; a decent jig about a hundred. I've not used budget 1/2" tackle from the DIY sheds for w/t work so can't comment if they're up to it - I use my trusty 20 year old ELU (now part of the DeWalt empire).

By properly jigged I mean - firmly fixed or clamped, plenty of bearing surface for the router to sit on and be guided smoothly around/across according to the guide path. Cut in stages (minimum 3) through the thickness of the w/t & watch-out for 'break-out', also always cut into the post-formed edge (if you exit cut there you'll lose a bit of your Formica finish so spoiling your w/t) so one of your cuts will have to be done on the 'flip' side.