Cutting Laminate Worktops

[zapata]

Hi,

This is my first post here. Great to find a site with loads of good information and solid expertise on a wide variety of subjects.

Anyway, I find myself needing to cut loads of 40mm thick laminate kitchen worktops to fairly precise lengths, with a good(ish) edge finish.

Whenever I've cut laminate worktops before, for small jobs, I've used a jigsaw.

In my experience, jigsaws work fairly well, but the blade inevitably flexes during a long cut (because of heating etc.) and this results in a less-than-square angle as the cut progresses, so I'm considering using a circular saw.

Any tips on what type/size of saw/blade to use?

Any tips on finishing the edges to a reasonable standard without the 'iron on' or aluminum trim?

Your tips on techniques or tools much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Steve

 

[big-all]

circular saw strait edge worktop upside down cut front to back

not shure how else you would "finnish" a chipboard edge to make it look good and water tight

 

[Diyisfun]

Clamp the straight edge to the worktop & let the saw do the work, dont force it

 

[OLD]

There are three angle saw blades for cutting laminate two teeth score and the third removes between, cut from back.
This firm may helphttp://www.summitsawblades.co.uk/index.htm

 

[Symptoms]

Steve - buy the best circular saw you can afford 200 or 250mm blade size. Next, obtain a tipped blade specially designed for cutting laminate, fit to the above saw. You should also get a clamp-on straight-edge (Trend do one) which'll act as a fence - they come in different lengths and will be efficient when doing lots of cuts.

Work on the underside of the worktop and start the cut on the front post-formed edge, this will minimise/eliminate break-out damage to the laminate.

Finish edges with matching laminate strips, glued on with contact adhesive (something like Thixofix or Timebond). Smooth any corners with a fine file held at an angle.

Jigsaws should really only be used for cutting curves.

If you need to do cut-outs, say for sinks/hobs, use the circular saw in a plunging action then finish the corners/curves with the jigsaw. You can go in through the top of the w/t here 'cos the laminate edge is likely to be covered by the sink/hob. Remove the riving-knife (it sticks down below the saw and is designed to keep timber from binding on the blade) when plunging. Care with the saw when plunging as it'll sometimes want to 'ride-over' in reverse, thus damaging the laminate surface or you.

We always finish saw cut edges on worktops with a router before applying edging.

 

[zapata]

Steve - buy the best circular saw you can afford 200 or 250mm blade size. Next, obtain a tipped blade specially designed for cutting laminate, fit to the above saw. You should also get a clamp-on straight-edge (Trend do one) which'll act as a fence - they come in different lengths and will be efficient when doing lots of cuts.

Work on the underside of the worktop and start the cut on the front post-formed edge, this will minimise/eliminate break-out damage to the laminate.

Finish edges with matching laminate strips, glued on with contact adhesive (something like Thixofix or Timebond). Smooth any corners with a fine file held at an angle.

Jigsaws should really only be used for cutting curves.

If you need to do cut-outs, say for sinks/hobs, use the circular saw in a plunging action then finish the corners/curves with the jigsaw. You can go in through the top of the w/t here 'cos the laminate edge is likely to be covered by the sink/hob. Remove the riving-knife (it sticks down below the saw and is designed to keep timber from binding on the blade) when plunging. Care with the saw when plunging as it'll sometimes want to 'ride-over' in reverse, thus damaging the laminate surface or you.

We always finish saw cut edges on worktops with a router before applying edging.

Many thanks Symptoms.

Sounds like good solid advice there.

I will follow it!