Cutting Long Lengths of Wood at Angles

[Matthew Bester]

I need a long (5.1m) length of tilt/fillet or arris rail BUT with a 40-degree angle.

I found this and it was pretty close, I am considering purchasing a tool to do the job myself because the carpenters I approached don't seem interested and the quote I recieved was twice the price of the entire project.

Tilt Fillet / Arris Rail Celcured (2 Ex) 75x75 - 70% PEFC Certified

Tilt Fillet / Arris Rail Celcured (2 Ex) 75x75

www.mstc.co.uk

I'm thinking some kind of circular saw with bevel gauge but my mind is fog from all the options...

 

[Lower]

A timber yard should be able to rip a length to that profile for you. They often cut for free if you're buying the wood from them.

 

[Matthew Bester]

A timber yard should be able to rip a length to that profile for you. They often cut for free if you're buying the wood from them.

I tried that with the one that sells this piece but they said the machines can't/won't be recalibrated for small job.

Asked a few others, no response.

Tried a joinery and got the eye watering quote and even then it would be shorter than I need.

 

[Lower]

The wood yard near me is a more helpful than yours then

If you want to do the job yourself, you'd need a table saw. Just make sure that the depth of cut is sufficient for what you need with the blade at the 40 degree angle you want.

 

[Matthew Bester]

The wood yard near me is a more helpful than yours then

If you want to do the job yourself, you'd need a table saw. Just make sure that the depth of cut is sufficient for what you need with the blade at the 40 degree angle you want.

Yeah sounds that way. I was quite shocked by the apathy over the phone.

Having said that, I've just rung Lawsons and the chap there suggested electric planer. You've suggested table saw. So I think between the two I can cobble something together at the fraction of the cost of the joinery.

Start with the original piece (orange) and shave off at an angle until I achieve the profile in grey.

 

[Lower]

How accurate does the profile have to be?

 

[matlob]

Not sure how you are fixing the wood but you could use a thin strip of standard wood to pack it out and create the angle if that makes sense

 

[Matthew Bester]

How accurate does the profile have to be?

Not terribly. Can be rough sawn.

73mm base and 40-degree angle are most important. This rounds out to be about 62mm on the side and 95mm on the hippopotenuse, some tolerance there.

 

[Matthew Bester]

Not sure how you are fixing the wood but you could use a thin strip of standard wood to pack it out and create the angle if that makes sense

It is for a partition wall in the loft made from metal stud and track.

The top track runs perpendicular to the rafters at an angle (40-degree) offset from ridge sadly.

This timber (marked red) is to give the top plate a flat surface to attach to, cancel out the slope of the rafters.

 

[Lower]

Can't you just drop some noggins vertically off the side of the rafters to give a flat vertical surface that you could attach to?

 

[Matthew Bester]

Can't you just drop some noggins vertically off the side of the rafters to give a flat vertical surface that you could attach to?

I honestly thought a tilt fillet would be the easiest thing. I could even attach top plate to it to make sure it was straight.

Noggins is possible but more cuts and it'll be harder to keep it straight.

I do wonder what stud & track guys do in this situation.

 

[aveatry]

So is this just to attach plasterboard to. If so don't bother with making an angle and just use 2x3 and use a planer just to take the sharp corner down a little to create a flatter surface for the PB.

 

[Matthew Bester]

So is this just to attach plasterboard to. If so don't bother with making an angle and just use 2x3 and use a planer just to take the sharp corner down a little to create a flatter surface for the PB.

No, it is solely for the top track.

As its the roof it needs to be a "deflection track". That means the vertical studs and plasterboard are not attached to the top track so that the wall can't accidentally become load bearing if the roof shifted, say for example if it snowed.

 

[Lower]

I think noggins would be easier. Attach a noggin to the first rafter and the last, join them with your track (or straight edge) and then go back and attach the noggins on the other rafters in between. The rafters won't be dead straight anyway so your profiled piece of wood would just follow the wonky rafter line rather than a straight line.

 

[Matthew Bester]

I think noggins would be easier. Attach a noggin to the first rafter and the last, join them with your track (or straight edge) and then go back and attach the noggins on the other rafters in between. The rafters won't be dead straight anyway so your profiled piece of wood would just follow the wonky rafter line rather than a straight line.

That's an excellent point about the rafter line, I hadn't consdiered that... it probably would be wonky and after all that effort too.

I like that. Noggins first and last to get it dead straight then stagger them as I go. I think this wins out.

Now to make some noggins 72mm by x by x...