cutting space in base unit to slot in sink

[NHW]

Just thought I would get some further advice before I carry on but I am at the stage of getting the worktop fitted (professionally), but I am just getting all my base units fixed in ready for templating.

The worktop itself is 30mm thick granite, but this area of my sink is 40mm :

and this is what I need to modify in order for it to fit in currently :

The Yellow part is routing 10mm down because the left hand side of the sink is only 40mm deep, but obviously the right hand side I will have to just cut (saw) out because that part is obviously deeper.

My only thinking is that it sort of seems to look abit weak (and thin) after I would have done that and also where I have to route into it basically is where the dowel's are on the left hand side, so technically it would also just not be supported by those dowels and I assume would just put some L brackets underneath.

Having looked at other 1000mm kitchen base units like this one :

Im tempted to just cut out that entire piece entirely and then just insert a thinner 20mm piece (like above) and that would save me any hassle of having to do any routing/cutting at all, would just affix using wood screws from the side of the unit and then also into the middle post.

which one seems to make more sense? Thanks in advance for any advice

 

[mrrusty]

That piece isn't under much stress, but you really want to keep a little bit of it so it looks correct, and you do need to support the centrepost at the top. If it was me, I would trim it back far enough with a jig saw (forget the router) to clear the sink and see what is left. The worktop will most likely be siliconed to it so that will strengthen it anyway - probably enough. If you feel that it is so flimsy that you want to strengthen it, a piece of 15x15 ally angle screwed across the back edge with the other flange underneath and trimmed round the centre post would be enough.

Or, if you don't mind it showing when the doors are open, use the cut off piece on edge underneath the thin remaining piece in each door opening screwed and glued in from the top - a piece about 30mm depth would significantly strengthen the cross brace.

You've chosen a sink which requires this cutaway when used with a 30mm WT - other sinks would not have required so much cutaway.

 

[opps]

As above, I would just jigsaw it. The worktop will hold the units in place.

 

[NHW]

That piece isn't under much stress, but you really want to keep a little bit of it so it looks correct, and you do need to support the centrepost at the top. If it was me, I would trim it back far enough with a jig saw (forget the router) to clear the sink and see what is left. The worktop will most likely be siliconed to it so that will strengthen it anyway - probably enough. If you feel that it is so flimsy that you want to strengthen it, a piece of 15x15 ally angle screwed across the back edge with the other flange underneath and trimmed round the centre post would be enough.

Or, if you don't mind it showing when the doors are open, use the cut off piece on edge underneath the thin remaining piece in each door opening screwed and glued in from the top - a piece about 30mm depth would significantly strengthen the cross brace.

You've chosen a sink which requires this cutaway when used with a 30mm WT - other sinks would not have required so much cutaway.

ahhhhhh thank you, yeah I was thinking it was abit of a faff to have to route it nevermind all the dust thats going to come out and having to faff around IF I had'nt gone deep enough and have to have another go around, cutting it straight off would eliminate that.

yes that is the only reservation that I have is the middle post being too flimsy if the piece above (which i'm cutting) isn't secure enough.

having just checked how much I have to play with the remaining piece is like 1cm, and I got a feeling that whilst im cutting it, theres a high possibility that it could snap if I apply too much force (handsaw) or if i apply too much downward force using the jigsaw and it just snaps since i'd be cutting it on an elevated position, since im pretty much cutting away 95% of the bulk of it.

Image below of the pencil lines of where I need to cut, and then red marking is just to illustrate what would be left over after cutting.

Thank you guys for your replies and advice btw

 

[mrrusty]

I think you actually have another problem, so hang fire before you cut. I'm pretty sure (one of the pro's will chip in I'm sure) that the minimum width for a granite section is 50 or 60mm. If you only have 10mm clearance plus 20-30 overhang that's only 30-40mm and I don't think there is any way you will cut such a thin section safely out of granite. Why is it such a small dimension? we have a pretty standard inset schock sink (https://www.schock.de/int_en/sinks/lithos-d-150?colors=Onyx&installationTypes=A - nice sinks) in a standard depth granite worktop and it isn't as close as that to the front of the worktop. (the cut size for that sink is 485, which in a 600+ WT gives enough "meat" for the cutout)

If it's very deep, I think I might be inclined to send that sink back and get a different one.....or can you move it a bit further back?

 

[Diver Fred]

I'd fit the top rail at 90 degrees to how it is at present. OK, so may (will) have to redrill the sides to suit but that will be much stronger as then the top rail will have the large dimension vertical to support the granite better at a weak spot for both carcase and granite.

 

[foxhole]

Cut out all , routing will just leave open chipboard to soak up any leak.
Seal all cut edges( I prefer foil tape as it’s obvious if you miss any of the cut).

 

[chirpychippy]

Take the centre post out, it isn't needed. Remove the front bar in one piece and refit vertical flush with the front of the carcass, use stretcher plates to hold it in place, unless you have a Pocket Hole Jig.

Job done, worktop supported no butchering the front bar.