When I use my bandsaw the cut always curves off to the left. I've adjusted the blade guides top and bottom and cannot understand how this happens. It moves so far that it eventually jams. Any ideas what causes this and how I stop it wandering. Thanks
Cutting straight with a bandsaw
- Thread starter navery
- Start date
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heeelllooo navery and welcome
curiousity what make
i have the machine mart[clark ] bandsaw and its very nearly impossible to get it cutting parallel with the fence so what i do is run it for a few seconds to settle blade align a piece of wood with the edge of the blade being carefull no to deflect the blade
draw a pencil line on the table top you can now aim allong this line or clamp a bit of wood parralel to the line
hope this helps
curiousity what make
i have the machine mart[clark ] bandsaw and its very nearly impossible to get it cutting parallel with the fence so what i do is run it for a few seconds to settle blade align a piece of wood with the edge of the blade being carefull no to deflect the blade
draw a pencil line on the table top you can now aim allong this line or clamp a bit of wood parralel to the line
hope this helps
Hi
Mine's a Nutool - two wheel. I can't understand how it twists when the top and bottom guides are in place. It seems to want to cut an arc rather than a straight line at an angle so the only way to use it is to mark the wood and without a guide twist the wood as the blade twists - trying to keep ot on the line - not what I bought the tool for - very very frustrating
Mine's a Nutool - two wheel. I can't understand how it twists when the top and bottom guides are in place. It seems to want to cut an arc rather than a straight line at an angle so the only way to use it is to mark the wood and without a guide twist the wood as the blade twists - trying to keep ot on the line - not what I bought the tool for - very very frustrating
is the blade the correct tension 
are the top and bottom blade guids in line sideways
at rest is the blade touching all back support guids
i paid £85 for mines on a vat free day for that i only expect it to 95% accurate and 99% with tinkering i also expect to have to check it frequentyly for allighnment
are the top and bottom blade guids in line sideways
at rest is the blade touching all back support guids
i paid £85 for mines on a vat free day for that i only expect it to 95% accurate and 99% with tinkering i also expect to have to check it frequentyly for allighnment
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You usually have to adjust the alighnment of the fence when you change blade.
Mark a line on a piece of scrap, cut along this line allowing the scrap to move so the blade follows the line. Stop the motor after you have cut 8" or so but don't move the wood, loosen the fence fixings and adjust its angle so it is parallel with the edge of the scrap. This way the fence will feed the wood at the correct angle for the blade run out.
If you have been using the blade to do a lot of curved work like cutting bowl blanks this will remove the set from one side of the blade making it track sideways.
Jason
Mark a line on a piece of scrap, cut along this line allowing the scrap to move so the blade follows the line. Stop the motor after you have cut 8" or so but don't move the wood, loosen the fence fixings and adjust its angle so it is parallel with the edge of the scrap. This way the fence will feed the wood at the correct angle for the blade run out.
If you have been using the blade to do a lot of curved work like cutting bowl blanks this will remove the set from one side of the blade making it track sideways.
Jason
This makes it easier than what I described above, click on the pic of the guy fitting a blade.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00135.asp
Jason
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00135.asp
Jason
Even expensive bandsaws suffer this problem at times. Usually from the set of the blade not being quite right ( either through too much wear on one side of the blade, trying to force the work through too fast or a bad blade). Most good woodworking magazines will tell you that when you buy a bandsaw the first thing you should do is get a good blade, cheap blades often are not good quality and not worth all the hassle of trying to get them to cut straight. It's false economy to buy cheap blades.
Hope this helps.
Gem
Hope this helps.
Gem
Just ordered two Lenox Trimaster blades for a Metabo bas 505g.
Cost = £92.98 each.
These blades are carbide tipped/ triple chip grinded/ 3 tpi/20mm width and are specified to cut.....
Aluminum/Non-Ferrous Mold Steels
Carbon Steels
Tool Steels
Alloy Steels
Wood
Bearing Steels
Titanium Alloys
Stainless Steels
Nickel-Based Alloys (Inconel®)
Just been using Starrett Duratec sfb carbon steel blades and not very impressed. Not sure if starret have a similar offering but I expect they do.
Anyway here is said blade in action...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEFUT2dSoiw
Cost = £92.98 each.
These blades are carbide tipped/ triple chip grinded/ 3 tpi/20mm width and are specified to cut.....
Aluminum/Non-Ferrous Mold Steels
Carbon Steels
Tool Steels
Alloy Steels
Wood
Bearing Steels
Titanium Alloys
Stainless Steels
Nickel-Based Alloys (Inconel®)
Just been using Starrett Duratec sfb carbon steel blades and not very impressed. Not sure if starret have a similar offering but I expect they do.
Anyway here is said blade in action...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEFUT2dSoiw
I hope your right. If I can get anything close to the performance that guy in the video is getting I'll be a convert.
Just fitted the Lenox tri-master. It zipped through that piece of 4"x2" like a knife through butter.
Slightly slower feed rate with the 150mm walnut but very little pressure to feed it through. And runs very quiet and smooth.
Its not an expensive bandsaw by any means but this blade makes it look good.
Slightly slower feed rate with the 150mm walnut but very little pressure to feed it through. And runs very quiet and smooth.
Its not an expensive bandsaw by any means but this blade makes it look good.
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