Cylinder drain valve

[Bon]

I have just been looking at how to go about draining my hot water cylinder so that I can fit a flange for a shower however the valve that is fitted to the tube coming out of the cylinder that runs to the drain/overflow outlet will not budge.

The valve looks like a quarter turn lever valve, however I have noticed that there's a nut on the under side of the valve which is screwed onto a thread that appears to run through the valve.

Is this why the valve wont open, i.e. do I need to loosen the nut in order to turn the valve.

I don't want to really force the valve if this is the case to avoid damaging other joints, however I equally don't want to unscrew the nut if this will also lead to problems!!!

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Bon

 

[gas4you]

The drain for your h/w cyl should be at the bottom of the 22mm pipe that goes into the bottom of the h/w cylinder.

Never force anything unless you are wearing wellies and a plastic mac

I'm not quite sure what this lever valve is, not usually used for drain off!

 

[Bon]

I'm 99% sure that this is the drain. It runs out of the bottom of the cylinder, through the valve and then the overflow from the CH fill/vent tank drops down to meet it and it then runs outside.

Can't see any other drain location for the cylinder either.

Does anyone else know how this valve works??

EDIT: got a pic now - http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t288/bon151280/ValvePic.jpg

 

[gas4you]

If you cannot open valve you could cut 22mm off top of tank, or undo compression joint and put hose in down to bottom of cylinder and let it drain by syphon action.

Now seen pic. Yes that looks like drain. Try using a long wrench on lever to get more leverage. When drained replace with new valve or just put normal drain off cock on it.

 

[Bon]

Would you not advise loosening that nut then?

You're right it certainly doesn't look like anything I've seen before - Might try one of the senior design engineers at work and see if he knows. otherwise the hose pipe's coming out!!

I've been wondering if maybe that nut is there to make a fully water-tight seal (i.e. to stop the water from the heating feed and exp. tank from getting in the cylinder) so you would close the valve and then tighten the nut.

If that's the case then undoing it would allow the valve handle to turn - It doesn't feel as if it's jammed, it really won't budge as if something has locked it in place.

 

[gas4you]

It actually looks like an old gas cock to me. You could loosen it , but try it very slowly, bit by bit. be prepared for some leakage

 

[RayJ]

Hi,
Yes you loosen that nut.What it basically does is pull the gland down tight when you close it.
When i have come across these I have had to loosen the nut (dont remove it) then give the valve a tap on the underside (in other words..tap the nut up).I would also remove the handle and use an adjustable spanner to turn the valve a 1/4 turn.Do not force it although i imagine it will be stiff.If you can, try to hold something against the force of you turning it (if you get what i mean).Try not to put any force on the copper itself.
Good luck

 

[Nige F]

It actually looks like an old gas cock to me. You could loosen it , but try it very slowly, bit by bit. be prepared for some leakage

......it`s a plug cock ....similar used for gas, with the outside drain, you`ve got a good job ...as said undo and loosen carefully

 

[Bon]

Phew, was getting a bit worried there as if I had a prototype valve that no-one had ever seen .

Reassuring to know the job's been done well too.

Thanks for the help guys

 

[ChrisR]

I only wish they were all as good as that!

 

[RayJ]

They were actually one of the best drain cocks you could get.Pity they have stopped making them.

 

[Bon]

So I'm guessing if the valve opens easily enough and I can drain the tank, I should keep the valve?

 

[RayJ]

Yup, no need to change it if it works fine.When you have finished draining and you close the valve,just give the nut underneath a tighten up