Cylinder Leak

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I have a 120L indirect hot water cylinder with a slow leak. The leak comes from underneath at the front edge. Is there a sealant that I can pour into the cylinder or will I need to replace it? Many thanks
 
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replace it .
ok-wink.gif
 
Figured I might have to. The tanks I've looked at have connections at a different height. Am I ok to patch in a push fit flexi hose by cutting the existing pipe? Many thanks.
 
so you want to cut your existing pipes and put a pushfit flexi hose in to make up the difference in heights in the connections.
 
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Yeah, on one connection. I could re solder the joints and use copper pipe but I figured if a hose was acceptable it would save time.
 
not my prefered way.

but you can get flexis suitable for heating but those you see in bq, screwfix etc are not as they only reccomend a max temp of about 60 degrees.
and your heating side can reach temps of about 80 degrees and if the hose blows the warranty on the hose won't cover what you used it for.

you can always use a lenght of plastic pipe and two compression fitting rather than pushfit.


but long term i prefer copper & solder.
 
Cheers for the advice. I figure copper will look best if I come to sell my house, was trying to avoid buying a blow torch.
 
better if it looks like it done properly.

you'll be buying a lot more if you bodge it and 117 litres leak everywhere

ok-wink.gif
 
You don't need to invest in a torch + solder + flux. Just get yourself some compression couplings (should be 22mm in your case) to connect new pipe to existing pipe. All you need is a spanner.

Post on this forum again if you need advice on how to fit them. They are almost as easy as pushfit, a damn site more reliable, and when you have finished the job will look more professional.

This link is for Screwedfix, but you can get smaller packets from Been & Queued

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/74627...gs/Flowflex-Straight-Coupling-22mm-Pack-of-10
 
You don't need to invest in a torch + solder + flux. Just get yourself some compression couplings (should be 22mm in your case) to connect new pipe to existing pipe. All you need is a spanner.

Post on this forum again if you need advice on how to fit them. They are almost as easy as pushfit, a damn site more reliable, and when you have finished the job will look more professional.

This link is for Screwedfix, but you can get smaller packets from Been & Queued

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/74627...lex-Straight-Coupling-22mm-Pack-of-10[/QUOTE]

Do it properly as seco says.... unless your another one of the 'experts' after 6 weeks on a plumbing course who thinks he knows it all.
 
get yerself some yorkshire fittings some flux and a blow torch then you'll just have to heat the joints to make the solder flow. once you see the silver dring of solder then stop heating the joint.
 
You don't need to invest in a torch + solder + flux. Just get yourself some compression couplings (should be 22mm in your case) to connect new pipe to existing pipe. All you need is a spanner.

Post on this forum again if you need advice on how to fit them. They are almost as easy as pushfit, a damn site more reliable, and when you have finished the job will look more professional.

This link is for Screwedfix, but you can get smaller packets from Been & Queued

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/74627...lex-Straight-Coupling-22mm-Pack-of-10[/QUOTE]

Do it properly as seco says.... unless your another one of the 'experts' after 6 weeks on a plumbing course who thinks he knows it all.

Bit OTT isn't it. Why do you assume that the OP has been on a 6 week course and knows it all.

If the OP doesn't have the skills, experience and equipment, then compression joints make a lot of sense. They require hardly any skill and are as permanent as soldered if fitted correctly.
 
if you wanted a flexible connection, you can get convoluted copper pipe (like a vacuum cleaner hose) that is (not very) flexible and has plain ends that you can solder or use compression fittings.

I would be suspicious of an ordinary flexi hose on a permanent fitting that you never want to have to replace (they also have a constricted bore, if you are thinking of the sort used for tap connections)

Compression fittings are relatively expensive, especially in big sizes, but you are not buying dozens of them so no great problem.
 
I would definitely make sure it`s the cylinder, they usually leak at the seams, if it`s coming from beneath check the cylinder unions & in a lot of cases the drain off point conveniently positioned to the rear of the cylinder, (where your cold supply goes in).
 
TBH i would prefer to use compression if it was me as making sure all the water is out of old pipes is imperative or solder wont take!
Horses for courses etc
 

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