damaged vacuum cleaner cord...

[dingdongUK]

I have a hoover bagless vacuum cleaner which I am very happy with it. It is so powerful, that when I was cleaning the other day, it somehow managed to suck up part of the cord. It made a crazy noise and since then, it does not switch on.
Part of the black rubber outside casing has stripped away, and I can see some of the copper wiring exposed, as well as some of the blue wire.
Just to say, i am not very confident in fixing things.
I tried a new fuse in the plug, but when I switched it on, some sparks flew out, and now the switch on the wall socket will not stay down. Not sure what might have happened there.
What can I do to fix the cord? My friend said something about a junction plug, where you cut the cord then feed it into this thing. But I don't really know what that is.
Please help...
Many thanks in advance.
DAVE

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Other than replacing the whole flex, you would require to joint with a secure connector that is suitable for the purpose, a standard junction box is not suitable, nor are taped up connector blocks. The joint requires to be in a safe enclosure and the flex/cord gripped.
They are a few on this link:
Ignore the weatherproof connectors, unless you are hoovering the lawn!
And in most cases you would require a joint rated at 10A-13A
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Cable_Accessories_Index/Cable_Connectors/index.html

 

[dingdongUK]

many thanks for the reply. I don't even think I would know what to do with one of those connectors anyway. How hard would it be to fit a new cord, entirely?

 

[dingdongUK]

see, what I was thinking was possible would be to cut the cord, and then somehow splice them back together. Is this not the case? And any idea what the sparks might have been when i put the new fuse in, and why the wall socket switch won't depress anymore?
I hate sucking at home repairs.
Cheers.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

many thanks for the reply. I don't even think I would know what to do with one of those connectors anyway. How hard would it be to fit a new cord, entirely?

Harder than repairing the joint.
You would still need to make of two ends of the flex, install a plug at one end, then undo the vacuum casing where the flex is terminated and then copy the existing connections. For safety precautions fit flex to vac before fitting plug though.

 

[dingdongUK]

so, am i right in thinking that with a cable connector, you would cut the cord and then have three wires? And then feed those wires into each end of the cable connector? Is that right? Is it easy for someone who has NEVER done this kind of thing before?
Thanks again for helping out.
DAVE

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

see, what I was thinking was possible would be to cut the cord, and then somehow splice them back together. Is this not the case? And any idea what the sparks might have been when i put the new fuse in, and why the wall socket switch won't depress anymore?
I hate sucking at home repairs.
Cheers.

The termination need be sound and secure, with a good mechanical contact.
They must be enclosed in an enclosure that will not allow external electrical contact to live parts and can only be open by use of key or tool, the cord/flex should be protected against stress and gripped to prevent accidental removal.
The sparks would more than likely have been arcing between the bare conductors and heat has been generated back to the switched socket and probably burnt out the contacts and melted the switch mechanism.

You need to be careful around damaged electrical appliances, you have been foolish be replacing a fuse to damaged conductors.

 

[dingdongUK]

Thanks. lol. I think this is probably way above my head. Might have to get someone in to do the job.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

so, am i right in thinking that with a cable connector, you would cut the cord and then have three wires? And then feed those wires into each end of the cable connector? Is that right? Is it easy for someone who has NEVER done this kind of thing before?
Thanks again for helping out.
DAVE

That's about it, it maybe that the flex to the appliance is classed as double insulated and chances are there is no earth conductor, so just neutral and line/live to join.
The bare conductor that you strip off must be fully inserted within terminal, so no bare wires showing (but be careful not to nip the insulation in to the terminal, as this will prevent good contact)
You must also have the sheath of the flex (outer PVC coating often black or white, sometimes grey) within the enclosure, this would be where the cord grips would tighten to, so no blue or brown cables showing externally of the box.

So copy across the joints blue-blue, brown-brown and green/yellow-green/yellow if there is one.

 

[dingdongUK]

lol...i rang a repair man and they said they will fix it for 20 pounds. I think that's my best bet.
really appreciate the help, though.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

lol...i rang a repair man and they said they will fix it for 20 pounds. I think that's my best bet.
really appreciate the help, though.

Wise choice if you do not feel confident in taking on the task.
But I would now suspect that the socket outlet needs replacing also.

 

[sergeantash]

lol...i rang a repair man and they said they will fix it for 20 pounds. I think that's my best bet.
really appreciate the help, though.

Very sensible...

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I really cannot understand the mindset of someone who can see bare conductors in a mangled cable and decide to put a new fuse in the plug and power it up....

 

[sergeantash]

I really cannot understand the mindset of someone who can see bare conductors in a mangled cable and decide to put a new fuse in the plug and power it up....

I did actually think the same, hence why the only response to this thread should be "call a professional" or "the manufacturer".

 

[HERTS P&D]

I thought this thread was a 'wind up.'

Andy