Damp issues in multiple up stair rooms
- Thread starter lizzy110
- Start date
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Cold bridging and condensation?
Is there a loft above this ceiling, can you check if the insulation is properly in place?
Is there a loft above this ceiling, can you check if the insulation is properly in place?
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If you deliver a lot of water vapour into a house, it will spread (mostly upward as it is lighter than air) until it either escapes or condenses back into water.
Yes the bathroom does. I used to live in the property and never had problems with damp
If you can persuade the tenants to put a hanging rail or line over the bath, SHUT the door and window and run the extractor continuously, it will draw the water vapour out. The suction and the closed door will prevent it spreading through the house.
A modern fan will run for about 100 hours on one kWh of electricity costing around 25p so is not a significant cost.
If the existing fan is old and worn out, it may be noisy, but we can suggest modern ones with ball-bearing motors that are very quiet.
A modern fan will run for about 100 hours on one kWh of electricity costing around 25p so is not a significant cost.
If the existing fan is old and worn out, it may be noisy, but we can suggest modern ones with ball-bearing motors that are very quiet.
As John says, if the moisture is removed from the house, condensation and mould is less likely to form.
Having a kitchen extractor is a very good idea.
I don't think there is much you can do about the cold bridging around the lintel, others may comment.
A trickle vent in that area may help, but conversely, could make the area colder and tennant's have a habit of blocking them up.
I have had specific patches of mould appear on my ceiling, when some of my insulation was displaced - it is definitely worth checking the insulation is in place and dry around those patches. You could also consider topping up the insulation - modern standards are a minimum of 270mm rockwool (or equivalent).
...as it sounds as if you are a landlord and you want to avoid these sort of issues for your Tennant's - you could look at a PIV (positive input ventilation unit) - something like this:
They are not as efficient as a heat recovery system, but many housing associations are now using similar.
Having a kitchen extractor is a very good idea.
I don't think there is much you can do about the cold bridging around the lintel, others may comment.
A trickle vent in that area may help, but conversely, could make the area colder and tennant's have a habit of blocking them up.
I have had specific patches of mould appear on my ceiling, when some of my insulation was displaced - it is definitely worth checking the insulation is in place and dry around those patches. You could also consider topping up the insulation - modern standards are a minimum of 270mm rockwool (or equivalent).
...as it sounds as if you are a landlord and you want to avoid these sort of issues for your Tennant's - you could look at a PIV (positive input ventilation unit) - something like this:
They are not as efficient as a heat recovery system, but many housing associations are now using similar.
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