Decking Oil as a stain
- Thread starter Munroast
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Decking oil MIGHT be ok, supposing it doesn't come off on clothes when sitting on chairs - but there are specific oils for garden furniture.
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I've used garden furniture oil on benches, chairs and tables with good effect. Easy to apply with brush or cloth. Wouldn't ever use stains, varnish or coloured fence treatments because the wood is exposed to the elements and these coatings soon crack and peel. Best thing about oils is they are absorbed into the wood rather than forming a hard outer surface on the wood and when they fade you just re-apply with minimal prep. No scraping or sanding needed - just make sure surface is dry and free of dirt.
Oils are low odour, it's things like creosote that smell for a long time after application. No need to finish off, just a good coating of oil and let it soak in for a day or two. If the wood has previously been treated with stains or anything that dries on the surface this may need removing to let the oil penetrate into the grain.
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I've used garden furniture oil on benches, chairs and tables with good effect. Easy to apply with brush or cloth. Wouldn't ever use stains, varnish or coloured fence treatments because the wood is exposed to the elements and these coatings soon crack and peel. Best thing about oils is they are absorbed into the wood rather than forming a hard outer surface on the wood and when they fade you just re-apply with minimal prep. No scraping or sanding needed - just make sure surface is dry and free of dirt.
Oils are low odour, it's things like creosote that smell for a long time after application. No need to finish off, just a good coating of oil and let it soak in for a day or two. If the wood has previously been treated with stains or anything that dries on the surface this may need removing to let the oil penetrate into the grain.
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Probably better in woodwork but - Sandalwood wood wax smells nice but I've only seen it in Oz - like https://www.facebook.com/sandalwoodwax/
I don't know how it would react but it might kill the smell. Or there's lavender wax!
You'll know about Danish oil drying fast. Trad method was to add some pine terpentine (smells nicer than white spirit) or boiled linseed oil.
And - errm excuse if eggsucking lessons but you know oil stains all fade? Water stains are better for not doing so..
I don't know how it would react but it might kill the smell. Or there's lavender wax!
You'll know about Danish oil drying fast. Trad method was to add some pine terpentine (smells nicer than white spirit) or boiled linseed oil.
And - errm excuse if eggsucking lessons but you know oil stains all fade? Water stains are better for not doing so..
I use oils. You must apply them thinly so each treatment soaks in and dries before applying the next.
Any oil that remains on the surface after 20 minutes must be wiped away and the rag disposed of in a fire-prevention way.
Visible oil coatings will oxidise into a gummy varnish that is very very difficult to clean off.
"Danish oil" is vegetable oil that has been thinned with white spirit to soak in easily and dry quicker. It is adequate for indoor pieces that will be handled lightly.
Any oil that remains on the surface after 20 minutes must be wiped away and the rag disposed of in a fire-prevention way.
Visible oil coatings will oxidise into a gummy varnish that is very very difficult to clean off.
"Danish oil" is vegetable oil that has been thinned with white spirit to soak in easily and dry quicker. It is adequate for indoor pieces that will be handled lightly.
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A mate swears by Liberon Danish for kitchen worktops. I'm not so sure but his looks good. There's no standard mix for Danish, some state it starts with Tung oil but that's not a standard either.
Wouldn't use it outside.
I was thinking Munroast could put similar driers in his decking oil, for furniture.
Wouldn't use it outside.
I was thinking Munroast could put similar driers in his decking oil, for furniture.
