DHW Flowrate Options and Advice

Joined
4 Jan 2010
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Location
Worcestershire
Country
United Kingdom
Hello,

Long time lurker on this forum and I have been very thankful for the variety of information that I have been able to pick up.

I apologise in advance for the length of this post, please persevere.

We have recently moved house and have decided to replace the current boiler and vented system set up. We made the decision as the boiler is quite old (Glow worm Spacesaver 40-50F), the tanks are in the loft to clear the space and the header tank should just not be mounted where it is, we are also planning other renovations that would include new floors so we would like to get any plumbing changes out of the way.

I have had a number of people out for quotes mainly WB and Valliant accredited and some well recommended local people I have been quite open to the possibility of combi or unvented but have been disappointed by the number willing to talk about unvented (although looking at the £ difference I can understand why).

The house is a 4 bedroom 1 bathroom with 2 sections having flat roofs.

The plan is to redo the bathroom so it will have a bath and separate thermostatic shower, in the longer term we plan to add an on suite on the first floor and extend into the loft adding another on suite.

Currently there is about 9-10 KWH worth of rads which are insufficient especially in some sections, I have already worked out the replacements for these totalling 20KWH.

The main options I am looking through at the moment are:

Combi:

WB: 37CDI, 42CDI, Highflow 550
Valliant: 837, 937

Unvented

WB Boiler + Range 210L
Baxi Boiler + MegaFlow 210L

The installation of the 37 KWH combis starts at about 2.7kdepending on options rising to almost 4.4k for the big WB and then up to the 5k mark and beyond for the unvented options.

Right now I am trying to work out the justifications for spending the extra £££ on the 'better' options.

The boiler (and cylinder) would go in place of the current boiler in the utility this is just the other side of the wall to where the mains comes in in what looks like 22-25 mdpe this goes straight down to 15mm and then through the stopcock.

All of the companies tested the flowrate at the kitchen tap (4m from incoming) and all reported about 20L/m none felt the need to check pressure.

As 20L is marginal on the higher options I armed myself with a pressure gauge, 10l bucket and stopwatch and found the following:

Static Pressure: 3.5 bar
Garden tap fully open: 0.75 bar and 21.4 l/m
Garden tap: 1.5 bar and 17.1 l/m
Garden tap: 2 bar and 15 l/m
Garden tap: 2.5 bar and 11.7 l/m
Garden tap: 3 bar and 7.4 l/m
Kitchen tap fully open: 19 l/m
Bath tap fully open: 18 l/m
Kitchen and Bath tap fully open: 21.5 l/m combined

This is where I am trying to draw on the experience of the forum to help give an indication of what my possible results might be with the boilers\options I am looking at.

I have gone through the datasheets for the combis and tried to use the manufacturer specified min pressure for max DWH and this has given some interesting results as the WB seem to be more restrictive then the Valliant.

It seems with the 837 (0.75bar) I should get the full 15l@35 and with the 937 (1.3bar) I should get at least 18L.

However the 550CDI (1.7bar) which I liked to look of may only return just over 16 and the 42CDI (1.9bar) even less.

If the above is true (can anyone advise from experience?) then that would be a shame as I liked the fact that the WB modulate lower.

And then comes the issue of unvented, if I go by the datasheets I should get around 20l, and of course this would potentially be at a higher temperature rise, but of course £££, more spent on this means less elsewhere.

Which ever way I go the plan is to change the incoming so it goes straight to 22mm through to the boiler, hopefully this might release a little more flow.

If anyone could share there experiences in relation to the above I would be most grateful.
 
Sponsored Links
I install both the WB and Vaillants, if I was quoting your intended works then armed with the information you have provided here I would be advizing unvented DHW and possibly 2 or 3 heating zones, ground, first and loft.

More expensive yes, but a far better option.

;)
 
I install both the WB and Vaillants, if I was quoting your intended works then armed with the information you have provided here I would be advizing unvented DHW and possibly 2 or 3 heating zones, ground, first and loft.

More expensive yes, but a far better option.

;)

I have thought about heating zones but as I am stuck trying to justify which system anything that adds to the expense will have to wait :D

As you say more expensive but 'how much better'?

I did like the idea of the 550CDI, seemed a good middle ground but have now been a put off by the cost of extra flueing and what looks like a comparetivly high min pressure.

I do not want to spend good money and be dissappointed by the performance and I do not want to spend extra for not much more benefit.

Like everyone I want to have my cake and eat it with a nice cup of tea :D
 
Sponsored Links
The house is a 4 bedroom 1 bathroom with 2 sections having flat roofs.

Currently there is about 9-10 KWH worth of rads which are insufficient especially in some sections, I have already worked out the replacements for these totalling 20KWH.
How did you arrive at the 20kW figure? It sounds a lot for a 4 bed house.

Use either Sedbuk Boiler Calculator or EST online boiler calculator to work out the heating requirement of your house.

How much insulation do you have? You can get grants and special deals for this. Check out Energy Savings Trust Grant Search
 
Dont get too hung up on flowrates.

Obviously yours is not that good but still enough to have a reasonable performance. Improving internal pipework can only improve matters.

Just dont expect the maximum flow rate.

Tony
 
How did you arrive at the 20kW figure? It sounds a lot for a 4 bed house.

Use either Sedbuk Boiler Calculator or EST online boiler calculator to work out the heating requirement of your house.

How much insulation do you have? You can get grants and special deals for this. Check out Energy Savings Trust Grant Search

Using the 2 websites and the recent cold weather :D

The house has a 2 storey side extension and a single storey rear with flat roofs, I have assumed no insulation in the calcs which currently comes out at 18KWH. When I account for the single glazed windows that we will be replacing along with doing the loft insulation it drops to 16KWH. Not willing to touch flat roofs until they need recovering.

The overkill is to allow for bad winters, to allow for being able to evenly heat a large rear room and to ensure the three little cherubs stay toasty warm. I may lower the size of some bedroom rads.
 
Dont get too hung up on flowrates.

Obviously yours is not that good but still enough to have a reasonable performance. Improving internal pipework can only improve matters.

Just dont expect the maximum flow rate.

Tony

Thanks, I understand what you are saying I am just curious about the effects of water pressure on the flowrate on 'similiar' boilers from different manufacturers as on the surface it seems that a boiler with a lower stated flowrate may achieve a better final result then a.n.other 'bigger' boiler.

I'd also be interested if people achieve a much better final performance (i.e. shower) from an unvented system due to the higher water temp?
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top