Dimmer Stuck on Dim

[fearthegrimp]

Hi guys...

In the middle of making my sandwich last night, my kitchen light crackled and went really dim. It's a 3 bulb fitting with a two gang press and turn dimmer switch. The crackling appeared to come from a specific bulb.

The light is now stuck on the lowest dimmer setting and won't go up no matter how much I fiddle with the knob (?).

I've removed the bulb and tried again - still stuck on low. I thought I could even detect a faint crackle from the switch but I could be mistaken.

The switch was fitted about 4 months ago (from Wickes) replacing another faulty Wickes one. I think I'm starting to notice a pattern here...

I've always seemed to have had problems with this particular switch even though it's been wired correctly. Bulbs popping frequently, fuse box tripping...etc.

Does it sound like the switch has gone again? Should I get one from somewhere else?

A penny for your thoughts...

Thanks,

Paul.

 

[sparkiemike]

If you are using GU10 50W halogen lamps (240V) then it is a common problem.

Generally I don't fit dimmers if the lamps are GU10 50W halogen lamps (240V). When the lamp blows quiet often it will damage a dimmer module.

You can try a dimmer module with a higher rating (400W), i would recommend an Aurora Dimmer AU-DSP401

 

[Scoby_Beasley]

If you have a fancy switch plate that holds the dimmer module in with a nut then Aurora also sell the module itself on its own. Fitted a few of these in the past.

First link I found!!

 

[fearthegrimp]

Thanks guys - any chance you could point me to a decent one in chrome? 2 way 2 gang....

 

[Scoby_Beasley]

I, personally, couldn't suggest one. If you've already the chrome switch, with the dimmer held as I've described, then you can just swap the modules over. No doubt others have different fittings. Try the Click Mode range by SCOLMORE INTERNATIONAL LTD as their stuff is mostly very modular. I like it.

If you haven't already a chrome (metal) switch, before you invest, make sure you have a cpc (or earth) lead coming down from the light fitting(s) with your live/switched live cable. It'll need earthing.

I'm not a fan of dimmers, except for in the Danillo.

Hopefully someone else may give you some specifics to look at.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

If you are using GU10 50W halogen lamps (240V) then it is a common problem.

Generally I don't fit dimmers if the lamps are GU10 50W halogen lamps (240V). When the lamp blows quiet often it will damage a dimmer module.

You can try a dimmer module with a higher rating (400W), i would recommend an Aurora Dimmer AU-DSP401

I had a 4-gang dimmer in my lounge for years. Decades. I "made" it myself from a couple of 2-gang ones and a blanking plate because I couldn't find a 4-gang oriented how I wanted. I used dimmer modules from cheap-as-chips Wickes own brand switches, and they never put a foot wrong. They never buzzed, and they survived countless failures of 60 & 100W tungsten lamps with surges high enough to trip the breaker (don't believe anything people tell you about good quality lamps and Ballotini fuses - they were and they had them and the words "fireguard" and "chocolate" come to mind).

But it was getting tired looking, the faceplate had developed a small crack, I no longer liked the spun aluminium knobs, so I bought a nice modern replacement. 250W per gang rating, intelligent overload protection, soft start....

The first time a lamp failed it took out that module.

The next time one failed the module it took it out was so badly damaged it looked like someone had used a blow torch on it.


They don't make them like they used to....