Dip/strip/replace old door?

[tiddlywinks]

Hello
Our front door is badly in need of TLC. Multiple layers of old lead paint which have broken off. Badly filled gap in wood.
Is it likely to survive being dipped to remove paint? Ie is there a danger it will come apart/glass will fall out? Otherwise I think it need to be stripped with hot gun.
Advice appreciated.
Thank you.

 

[Tigercubrider]

I would ask the strippers but it would probably be sensible to have the glass out.
Once stripped, you may be advised to have a sheet of laminated glass fitted to the door as a protection for the glass. You could ask the strippers if they could provide some timber from the scrap pile that they probably have

 

[Burnerman]

I think the door would strip ok, so long as the joints haven’t sprung and its rot free.
Doors that I had done didn’t need the glass removed.
My doors were away for a week, however.....have you considered some sort of replacement?
John

 

[tiddlywinks]

Thank you both for your help. Yes, one of the joints has come away (where the filler is bottom left). Was wondering if putting a screw through the side would secure it. As it’s the original door I’m torn between restoration or replacing it with a new door. Thanks again.

 

[Burnerman]

Hmmm at this point I'd think long and hard about a new door.....with better security and toughened glass. Once the rot is there, its there for keeps unfortunately and any repairs will only put off the inevitable.
From what I can see, the frame looks to be ok but if you are going for a composite door, a new frame comes with it.
John

 

[tiddlywinks]

Thanks John. It hasn’t rotted as such, just come away a bit! Tends to warp a bit in winter. Are there any door companies you would recommend? Ideally we’d like a decent quality wooden one in a similar Victorian style. With a new frame and glass pane above. Thanks again.

 

[JohnD]

It's a nice Victorian door, presumably original to the house, as no replacement will ever be.

Don't devalue your home.

A joiner can easily take apart and remake a panelled door (especially if you have it stripped first) with new wedges and glue, and patch the unwanted holes.

If you can find a local man, he might lend you a door to use during stripping and repair

Keep that old lock and glass, too.

You can add a pane of laminated glass to improve security and cut noise.

Pretty certain you will need new hinges and modern draughtproofing.

I can sell you a Chubb 3G220, if you want.

 

[Burnerman]

Obviously I'm a little too far North of you to recommend anyone, but I can say that the big double glazing people (Everest for example) do have a range of traditional doors - at a price, of course!
At this stage, let's not rule out a composite door though - no draughts or warping, good locking and once it's in, its in.....they can look traditional too.
A local tradesman is probably the way to go for value - it does depend on the size of the piggy bank though.
John

 

[tiddlywinks]

Thanks both for your advice, much appreciated.

 

[Burnerman]

I’m sure we would appreciate to know the outcome if you’d be so kind!
If you decide to strip the door yourself, please be aware that fumes from leaded paint are best not inhaled!
Regards
John

 

[tiddlywinks]

Thanks, will report back.

 

[tiddlywinks]

We took the door off and stripped paint outdoors using hot air gun, and managed to get most of it off. As you can see in pics, there a some quite big gaps (up to a quarter of an inch wide). Is this size of hole fillable? What is a good wood filler for large holes?

Also warped in places. See view from above. Any advice on whether warped wood can be “unwarped”?
Many thanks.

 

[tiddlywinks]

Actually I pried the moulding away from the door and there was rubble behind, making it look more warped than it was. So just need a recommendation for a good wood filler for 1/8 inch gaps please. Thank you.

 

[Burnerman]

Filler wise you need a two part resin based material.....basically you take one portion of resin and mix it with a tiny portion of hardener and apply quickly.
It sets in around 20 minutes and is dead easy to sand. Its waterproof (but not submersible) so a good wood primer with plenty of top coats are recommended when the work is done.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/ronseal-high-performance-wood-filler-natural-550g/51811
Unfortunately you can't unwarp timber, but that doesn't sound too much of an issue now.
John

 

[tiddlywinks]

That filler is amazing! Thanks for the recommendation. I have filled and sanded the door, puttied the 9 windows, feel like I’m on the home stretch now! One last thing. How long should you leave linseed putty before priming? Is Zinsser Bullseye 123 plus suitable for priming putty? Thank you!