Do I Have Dry Rot?
- Thread starter Johnmelad
- Start date
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Sorry to say but looking at them pictures yes so all viable timbers will need removed back 1m past last signs to solid timber the wall all sprayed with treatment to kill the spores any leaks or damp batches need to be fixed if you stop the moisture getting to the fungus you will stop it but not kill it and will lie dormant all timbers need to be treated. It is one of them jobs I believe needs left to the specialist and they will be able to give certificate also the house insurance might need an approved person to carry out the work but not sure on that
'dave from storage wars'
YUPPPP.
as above,
if this is for a house purchase with a retention,then looks like you will have to go down the specialist route,so that a certificate can be issued.
if your handy then you can carry out the treatment yourself,google it for info.
but remove all timber that is infected 1m past the last outbreak,then all masonry in the area will have to be treated with a fungicide/wall treatment,there are differing views even on this forum on how to effectively carry out the treatment.
i still drill the walls out and flood the area,all timber needs to be pretreated and i wrap loosely any joist ends if there is a chance of them ever touching any of the walls,all spoil removed and a spray of fluid over the oversite.ventilation may need to be improved etc.
as said lots of info on here and google.
hth,and good luck.
just for your info i use this,
http://www.safeguardeurope.com/products/probor_db_10.php
and,
http://www.safeguardeurope.com/products/probor_20.php
YUPPPP.
as above,
if this is for a house purchase with a retention,then looks like you will have to go down the specialist route,so that a certificate can be issued.
if your handy then you can carry out the treatment yourself,google it for info.
but remove all timber that is infected 1m past the last outbreak,then all masonry in the area will have to be treated with a fungicide/wall treatment,there are differing views even on this forum on how to effectively carry out the treatment.
i still drill the walls out and flood the area,all timber needs to be pretreated and i wrap loosely any joist ends if there is a chance of them ever touching any of the walls,all spoil removed and a spray of fluid over the oversite.ventilation may need to be improved etc.
as said lots of info on here and google.
hth,and good luck.
just for your info i use this,
http://www.safeguardeurope.com/products/probor_db_10.php
and,
http://www.safeguardeurope.com/products/probor_20.php
This is a property I am doing up for a customer. I knew it was dry rot but was hoping (for customers sake) I might be wrong.
It's a Victorian property converted into four flats by a 100% cowboy builder. It's the worst example of cowboy building I have ever come across in my life.
It's a Victorian property converted into four flats by a 100% cowboy builder. It's the worst example of cowboy building I have ever come across in my life.
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Everyone's nightmare, that one. 
John
John
judging by the photos looks like its quite an outbreak,hope you aint given a price to do it m8,or there have your pants down.
defo a day work job, as what you have found so far will ONLY get worse as you start digging further in.
the trouble with these sort of jobs is,it infects a lot of the structural timbers and treatment will need to be carried out whilst you are removing certain parts etc,you may be lucky enough to prepare the area for the specialists to carry out the remedial work but bear in mind you dont want to working in the area whilst its still wet.and fumy.
defo a day work job,
as what you have found so far will ONLY get worse as you start digging further in.the trouble with these sort of jobs is,it infects a lot of the structural timbers and treatment will need to be carried out whilst you are removing certain parts etc,you may be lucky enough to prepare the area for the specialists to carry out the remedial work but bear in mind you dont want to working in the area whilst its still wet.and fumy.
Must admit it's a job I keep away from as poster says above day rates rather you than me
An alarming further prospect?
On the photos it appears that the "reddish" "dust" seen could have been the presence of a Dry Rot "fruiting body" that will deposit millions and millions of dry rot spores into the atmosphere
If there has been a "Propagating" fruiting body then this "outbreak could just go no and on.
Time to get in a specialist, because if you "eradicate" the "outbreak" and it comes back ? ? ?
One consideration? was there ANY indication AT ALL of a potential dry rot infestation? prior to you doing any work? If there was then the owner, if the Property has just been purchased could. and it is a long shot go after the Surveyor PROVIDED there was visual SURFACE indications of the presence of dry rot?
On the photos it appears that the "reddish" "dust" seen could have been the presence of a Dry Rot "fruiting body" that will deposit millions and millions of dry rot spores into the atmosphere
If there has been a "Propagating" fruiting body then this "outbreak could just go no and on.
Time to get in a specialist, because if you "eradicate" the "outbreak" and it comes back ? ? ?
One consideration? was there ANY indication AT ALL of a potential dry rot infestation? prior to you doing any work? If there was then the owner, if the Property has just been purchased could. and it is a long shot go after the Surveyor PROVIDED there was visual SURFACE indications of the presence of dry rot?
Johnmelad, I have experience in this field and it is definitely a specialists job, with true dry rot the extent usually goes a lot further than is just seen on the surface. There has to be a source of water as well, see if there is any signs of that, but again my advice is get a specialist report and do not expect a fixed price after investigation they will be able to give you an indication.
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