Do i need to get a new valve/refit properly?

[JamesAsus]

Hi,

I have a new vertical rad, TRV is fitted to the return. On the opposite side, rather than a lockshield looking valve it looks a bit different and im wondering if it would work in the same way, the plumber was a bit confused by it aswell and basically said we could have TRV on either side.

Please see picture.

I stupidly thought i was turning the lockshield valve when i turned the gold nut attatched to the gold plate, after a few turns suddenly water started spraying out, in a panic i tried to retighten it and eventually it sealed, kept an eye on it and it hasent leaked since, although a bit of rubber has come off from somewhere and im a bit worried where it could have come off?

If its not leaking after 24 hours do you think it will be okay?

Is it the white small nut on top of the gold nut which will act as a lockshield type valve, i.e. anticlockwise to fully open and clockwise to fully close?

 

[denso13]

Looks like a TRV body with no head attached.

 

[JamesAsus]

Looks like a TRV body with no head attached.

So can that be adjusted like a lockshield where i can restrict/increase flow by turning clockwise to anti-clockwise.

 

[denso13]

So can that be adjusted like a lockshield where i can restrict/increase flow by turning clockwise to anti-clockwise.

No, the centre pin should go up and down, which would be controlled by the correct head.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

If its not leaking after 24 hours do you think it will be okay?

Is it the white small nut on top of the gold nut which will act as a lockshield type valve, i.e. anticlockwise to fully open and clockwise to fully close?

They are not designed for adjustment, except by the TRV head pressing down on the pin. There should be a lockshield valve where the other pipe enters, to adjust and balance the flow to the rad.

As said in the other thread you started - post a good close up photo of the rubber, and it might be identifiable, otherwise we are at best guessing. Best guess, is that it is the seal which belongs under the brass part of the TRV.

 

[JamesAsus]

They are not designed for adjustment, except by the TRV head pressing down on the pin. There should be a lockshield valve where the other pipe enters, to adjust and balance the flow to the rad.

As said in the other thread you started - post a good close up photo of the rubber, and it might be identifiable, otherwise we are at best guessing. Best guess, is that it is the seal which belongs under the brass part of the TRV.

Its hard to get a good picture but it is rubber material and looks to have a curve so im thinking it is from between the brass and black plastic and im taking a guess that when i retightened the nut, the remaining rubber seal compressed and filled the gap?

If so will that be an issue that needs rectifying?

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Its hard to get a good picture but it is rubber material and looks to have a curve so im thinking it is from between the brass and black plastic and im taking a guess that when i retightened the nut, the remaining rubber seal compressed and filled the gap?

If so will that be an issue that needs rectifying?

Do you feel lucky, or unlucky?

 

[Mottie]

As said, the actual TRV head is missing. That black cap you have in the floor looks like the decorators cap. Screwing that down will only close the valve.

 

[JamesAsus]

As said, the actual TRV head is missing. That black cap you have in the floor looks like the decorators cap. Screwing that down will only close the valve.

But if the leak was from under the brass nut there would be no way of stopping it would there? Thats where i think that bit of rubber gasket has come from.

 

[Mottie]

If you’re concerned about it, you would be best to get a new seal or more likely, a replacement.

 

[JamesAsus]

If you’re concerned about it, you would be best to get a new seal or more likely, a replacement.

What is the easiest way to replace it without draining the full system? Can i undo the nut connecting the wall pipe to the valve, drain it into a bucket and by then there should be minimal pressure in the system and ill be able to change it and reattach?

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

What is the easiest way to replace it without draining the full system? Can i undo the nut connecting the wall pipe to the valve, drain it into a bucket and by then there should be minimal pressure in the system and ill be able to change it and reattach?

It's going round in circles now, as has been explained to you...

Turn the system off. Drop the pressure from the system, no need to drain it. You should be able to catch what comes out in bowls, before it stops, when a vacuum forms above the water. Have plenty of old towels to hand. Lay one over the top, to direct any spray.

Once the flow stops, you can remove the brass valve completely, examine it, and see what has happened.

 

[Laurieo]

A lot of vertical rads now come with two TRV,s one with a cap .Screwing the cap down slightly does slow the flow through it .

 

[JamesAsus]

It's going round in circles now, as has been explained to you...

Turn the system off. Drop the pressure from the system, no need to drain it. You should be able to catch what comes out in bowls, before it stops, when a vacuum forms above the water. Have plenty of old towels to hand. Lay one over the top, to direct any spray.

Once the flow stops, you can remove the brass valve completely, examine it, and see what has happened.

By drop the pressure do you literally just mean undo the nut between the CH pipe and valve and drain into a bucket?

 

[denso13]

Yes.