Do I use lining paper under wallpaper ?

[SproutsDad]

I am preparing my hallway for wallpapering and wonder if it needs lining paper under it?
The paper I have is a quality M&S medium weight with no relief or profile - flat.

Lining the walls would be an additional time consuming stage so I don't want to do it unless really necessary. The wall quality was not very good, it had vinyl silk and paper which have been scraped / steamed off along with the original 'distemper' type paint.

The wall will naturally require sizing and sealing, but it is now very flat and all imperfections filled and sanded down; I have spent hours and hours filling and sanding to get it up to the present state.

I have read that lining paper is the best base for a good new wallpaper. However, the recommendation is usually to lay it horizontal or vertical with a joint offset between wallpaper and lining paper.
Basically, shall I bother and if so what are the gains?
I have seen some walls lined where the lining paper joints are visible under the top wallpaper.

Your opinion and advice please.
See below pictures of current wall condition after dressing / prep.
Many thanks

 

[JohnD]

if you have spent time smoothing it, there should be no need. I like to give a bare wall a couple of coats of emulsion first because I think it makes it easier to hang and strip the paper, and to clean it next time, but opinions will differ.


White emulsion also highlights any remaining defects to your eye so you can deal with them before finishing off.


Distemper is a poor surface, so its good you have removed it.

 

[joe-90]

I agree with JohnD.

 

[SproutsDad]

Thanks John.
That aligns with what I had in mind. The surface is very flat and even, just a bit porous from all the prep.
I had also in mind to use a matt standard emulsion, good you recommend that. Maybe thinned a little so it doesn't get absorbed in the new/exposed porous plaster? Perhaps a few mist type coats?
What about adhesive for the paper? Would I use perhaps Solvite dry to mix, or a ready mixed one?
Thanks

 

[JohnD]

yes, the first coat or two should be well thinned and applied with a wide brush, so that it does soak in and start to seal the surface. The first thinned coat will disappear. Then I apply one or two unthinned coats. As it is not wet new plaster you do not need a porous non-vinyl paint. Give it a couple of days to harden well so your thumbnail doesn't mark it.

I find Solvite powder fine.

The painted surface gives you slip so I don't think you need to size it.

 

[joe-90]

Vinyl is far better. If you use contract matt you'll have to size it. Cheap crown matt from b and q for about £12/14 is excellent paint.

 

[SproutsDad]

Thanks Joe-90. Would that vinyl matt be thinned with water x% ??

On the subject of vinyl emulsion, I am decorating hall stairs and landing - big job lots of laborious prep from years of neglect.
I am wallpapering the hall but painting up the stairs and landing. Right or wrong I chose and have painted the stairs and landing with Wickes vinyl silk - yes silk!! I thought of it as a high traffic area subject to mucky paws and scuffs, many matts get easily soiled and then don't seem to clean without wearing and showing cleaning marks!

I don't hear of anyone much who uses silk these days, it's almost 'uncool', but the shelves are still stacked out with it. Matt or eggshell or soft sheen seem much more in vogue and from how I see it silk has largely fallen by the wayside unless it is for high wear buildings - schools, hospitals. Maybe it was a mistake to choose silk but I have spent time preparing and dressing the walls prior to the silk topcoat. I put a few coats of cheap Homebase Value standard matt cream (£10 for 5ltrs) as a base on the stripped plaster, it goes on well and has some body, feels like a good paint and can be lightly sanded, almost a filler coat on the stripped old plaster.

The vinyl silk is shinier by nature but has come up good. I have also found Wickes paints to be good so far.

But, have I created a problem for the future by using vinyl silk? It is by it's nature a flexible 'rubbery' skin! To remove it almost requires steaming it off. It is also difficult to sand and dress, unlike standard matt.
Should I continue with it for a final top coat or get something else? It is tough and durable but for the reasons stated above also has some downsides.
Your view please.
Thanks

(Sprout is the cat - 3-legged)