do you have to clamp off the brake hose when changing pads???

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hello,,,going to do my rear brake pads tomorrow on my ford focus estate 2010,,,i was wondering do you need to clamp off the rubber brake hose and open the bleed nipple before winding the piston back in ???,,,a few youtube vids ive watched mentions nothing about clamping the hose,,,they just wind in the piston,,,anybody???
 
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No need to clamp any pipes, just slowly wind the pistons back in.
No need to open the nipple either, unless you want to change the brake fluid.
Sorry I can't advise which way the pistons turn - if it's anything like the Mondeo it's anyone's guess!
John :)
 
Change the brake fluid while you're there. Personally I don't push the fluid back into the system but some people aren't bothered.
 
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No need to clamp any pipes, just slowly wind the pistons back in.
No need to open the nipple either, unless you want to change the brake fluid.
I have a 2004 Mondeo, and the Haynes manual says undo the bleed screw as the reverse flow of fluid into the master cylinder "has been known to" "flip" (Haynes terminology!) the MC rubbers leading to a total loss of braking. I think that's nonsense for various reasons, mainly that when the pedal isn't depressed there's an open route for fluid back to the reservoir. And Haynes doesn't mention it for the front brakes, though the piston can be pushed back much faster than the rear can be wound in. So I ignore it, never any problem.
Sorry I can't advise which way the pistons turn - if it's anything like the Mondeo it's anyone's guess!
John
You can work out which way to turn it by looking at the handbrake lever on the back of the cylinder (inboard on the car). If it turns the shaft clockwise when the brake is applied, the actuator has a left-hand thread, as it pushes the pad away. So to retract the piston it goes anti-clockwise, (to screw the piston on to the actuator). And vice versa.
On the Mondeo it's one way for the saloon and hatchback, the other for the estate, as on one the handbrake cable connection is above the cylinder shaft, on the other it's underneath.
 
What you do have to watch out for is brake fluid overflowing the reservoir. It's not likely to happen although any excess fluid pushed back into the system will find it's way into the reservoir. Brake fluid is not good with paint.
 
I have a 2004 Mondeo, and the Haynes manual says undo the bleed screw as the reverse flow of fluid into the master cylinder "has been known to" "flip" (Haynes terminology!) the MC rubbers leading to a total loss of braking. I think that's nonsense for various reasons, mainly that when the pedal isn't depressed there's an open route for fluid back to the reservoir. And Haynes doesn't mention it for the front brakes, though the piston can be pushed back much faster than the rear can be wound in. So I ignore it, never any problem.

You can work out which way to turn it by looking at the handbrake lever on the back of the cylinder (inboard on the car). If it turns the shaft clockwise when the brake is applied, the actuator has a left-hand thread, as it pushes the pad away. So to retract the piston it goes anti-clockwise, (to screw the piston on to the actuator). And vice versa.
On the Mondeo it's one way for the saloon and hatchback, the other for the estate, as on one the handbrake cable connection is above the cylinder shaft, on the other it's underneath.
Thanks - I'm aware of the trade tricks to identify which way to turn the pistons, but it's curious that Haynes were wrong, and so was you tube.....at least the vids I looked at!
John :)
 
What you do have to watch out for is brake fluid overflowing the reservoir. It's not likely to happen although any excess fluid pushed back into the system will find it's way into the reservoir. Brake fluid is not good with paint.
Didn't mean to teach you to suck eggs, but your comment "- if it's anything like the Mondeo it's anyone's guess!" made me think you didn't know :)
The Haynes manual is very useful, but it has limitations. Another thing it gets wrong on Mondeo rear brakes - it says to renew the pads, push the handbrake lever (the one on the caliper) forward, then unhook the inner cable. That doesn't work because the lever only moves forward about 3mm before the pads hit the disc, and it would need to move 10-12mm to unhook the inner. And there's no need to, just remove the bolts and take the caliper off the mounting bracket, and hang it on a length of wire from the spring, which you have to do anyway because of the hose. There's plenty of free movement in the cable to do that. Then wind the piston in, change the pads and refit the caliper.

Read more: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/...hose-when-changing-pads.500768/#ixzz5GReFUs9s
 
No that would only be when replacing a faulty caliper, and even then, it's not recommended due to potential damage to the hose reinforcement.
 
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