Does a cooker need to be hardwired?

[nt300uk]

I recently bought a dual fuel cooker, with a load of 3200w-3450w. The engineer from the store wired it up with a 13a plug, and said that hardwiring it in to the cooker outlet would supply it with too much power, and would end up damaging the cooker. I'm slightly concerned about rewiring it myself in case I invalidate the guarantee.

Can anyone advise me:

a) Whether a 13a plug would be okay?
b) Whether hardwiring it would damage the cooker?

Much obliged.

 

[Chri5]

3200w / 240 = 13.33a

3450w / 240 = 14.37a

3200w / 230 = 13.91a

3450w / 230 = 15a

So the potential load is higher than the max rating of the fuse in the plug, shouldn't apply diversity to a cooker, but at a pinch I'd say the 13a plug is okay, more so since 2.5mm flex is rated at 24a or so

If you rewire it, what fuse would you supply? A 13a via a f/spur or a 20a switch and 20a MCB / fuse at the CU.

Why are you considering re-wiring it?

NB Reason I shown 240v is that is a design voltage and 230v is the suggested real UK voltage- never sure which to use, so I've done both

 

[electronicsuk]

If you've quoted the installer word for word then it's probably just as well he didn't touch your hardwired cooker connection point.

3450w is slightly more load than a 13A plug is designed to take, but the actual load could be less depending on the design of the oven and taking diversity into account if necessary.

If the existing cooker connection unit is not being used for anything else then it would make sense to use it to power your new oven, as it will reduce the load on the (hopefully) ring main that is currently supplying it.

Hardwiring the oven will not cause it to use 'too much power', but it could result in a dangerous situation if the oven itself ever becomes faulty. Chances are that you currently have a 32A MCB or 30A fuse protecting that circuit, which would allow the oven to consume over 7000w in the event of a fault before you get even close to anything tripping.

Replace the MCB/fuse for the cooker circuit with a 16A protective device and then hardwire at the kitchen end.

 

[nt300uk]

Was considering rewiring it because the power seems to suggesting needing slightly more than 13a, though it's difficult to know whether diversity would bring it down to just under 13a. Both aesthetically and logistically, I would have preferred that the cooker was hardwired into the cooker outlet rather than plugged into a standard socket too.

The engineer used a standard 3-core 1.5mm flex, which the manual says is ok.

 

[JohnD]

it is also possible to fit a 13A socket at the point in the wall where the existing cooker connection comes out. That way you don't need to change the MCB and it's easy to change if you are foolish enough to want an electric hob in future

There's a lot to be said for using a 13A plug; it contains its own fuse and is so easy to unplug when the cooker needs to be pulled out for cleaning or servicing.

I expect your cooker connector is out of sight behind the cooker so no aesthetic problem.

p.s. I bet you a pound that it never blows the 13A fuse in the plug.

 

[CallEdsFirst]

"The engineer from the store wired it up with a 13a plug, and said that hardwiring it in to the cooker outlet would supply it with too much power, and would end up damaging the cooker."

Oh My God

Which store was this guy from? Trading Standards-tastic! What a hazardous fool!

Kind of reminds me of the people that turn sockets off in case they leak. "Quick tape them up or too much will leak out and fill the room"

Just a quick question though, if being on a 32 MCB that supplies the ring main would let it consume 7kW, how is being on the 45amp circuit that supplies the CCU any better? 10kW overcurrent anyone? I would even guess if its plugged in, the nearest socket would probably be the one on the CCU that is on the right circuit anyway! Just not the right connection method!

 

[JohnD]

. "Quick tape them up or too much will leak out and fill the room"

dont be silly, if you look at a 13A socket, you will see that little plastic shutters slide over the holes when you pull out the plug, to prevent the electricity leaking out

 

[DJM]

<snip>if you are foolish enough to want an electric hob in future

Odd statement John! An induction hob is the most efficient available. It is more controllable and cheaper to run than gas, and being glass topped, easier to clean. The only downside is difficult to use with a standard wok.

As for plugging in the cooker surely the main issue would be that the kitchen ring will also be used for the kettle, microwave, fridge, freezer, washing mashine, dishwasher etc as well as the cooker.

 

[CallEdsFirst]

. "Quick tape them up or too much will leak out and fill the room"

dont be silly, if you look at a 13A socket, you will see that little plastic shutters slide over the holes when you pull out the plug, to prevent the electricity leaking out

Is that what they are for? Did not realise! I thought you had to use these:

http://www.toysrus.co.uk/Content/Product/products3/390100_s.jpg

Plus, induction hobs are cool, but not so good for punks. Any jewellery, watches, piercings that get too close will heat up too! Anarchy in the.....ooowwwwwww hot hot burning!

 

[DJM]

Plus, induction hobs are cool, but not so good for punks. Any jewellery, watches, piercings that get too close will heat up too! Anarchy in the.....ooowwwwwww hot hot burning!

Only if they are cheapskates and are wearing base metal jewelry. Non-magnetic (ie gold silver most stainless and surgical steel) stuff is unnaffected

 

[JohnD]

Gas hobs are splendid. Immediate response, visible flame size. That's why all the best cooks use them.

 

[CallEdsFirst]

Gas hobs are splendid. Immediate response, visible flame size. That's why all the best cooks use them.

Random digression, but true. I have a monstrous electric cooker with 4 rings and a hotplate, two ovens and a grill and whilst it heats up in record time, the rings included, its not exactly controllable. Having no mains gas is a problem!!!!

 

[wiggles]

An induction hob is the most efficient available. It is more controllable and cheaper to run than gas, and being glass topped, easier to clean. The only downside is difficult to use with a standard wok.

But can you light a tab off them

You certainly can't cook with them during a powercut.

 

[CallEdsFirst]

An induction hob is the most efficient available. It is more controllable and cheaper to run than gas, and being glass topped, easier to clean. The only downside is difficult to use with a standard wok.

But can you light a tab off them

You certainly can't cook with them during a powercut.

Could you light a tab off an induction hob if you dipped it in mercury or pushed a bit of magnesium in the end?

I thought my oil boiler was a winner in a powercut, until i realised its all mains controlled and ignited! Can you get boiler UPS?

Damn you all! 4 weeks off the cigarettes now! I thought I'd be safe in here!

 

[Steve]

An induction hob is the most efficient available. It is more controllable and cheaper to run than gas, and being glass topped, easier to clean. The only downside is difficult to use with a standard wok.

But can you light a tab off them

You certainly can't cook with them during a powercut.

Many gas hobs and ovens are electronically controlled now. Our oven cuts off the gas if it cant light within 10 clicks. The gas wont come on unless the timer is set up. The benefit is that you can set the timer to turn the gas off after a set time. Though your food will go cold. Perhaps it would be better turning to gas mark 1 after the timer expires to keep cooked food warm . . . I digress!