Door Hanging Advice

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Buckinghamshire
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Hello,

I'm studying Engineering in my final year at Bournemouth University. I am re-designing the door lifter. I am hoping to design a door lifter that supports the door when lifted and holds it at the required height without you having to apply constant pressure to the lifter. The idea is to allow the user the use of both his hands and to carry out fixing and marking the hinges without a second person. The product will be aimed at light to very heavy doors and to be used by apprentices, DIYers and skilled carpenters fitting heavy doors.

I was hoping to gain any points or needs that you feel would benefit you whilst using the product, even if they are very simple and obvious i would really appreciate your feedback. For Example: Lifting the door at set increments, or allowing the door to be moved in and out of the frame whilst on the lifter.

Thank you very much for any information you can give,

Jack
 
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Jack - first check-out the American and British Patent Office sites ... tons of ideas. Check-out www.trendmachinery.co.uk for their door holding solutions. Consider introducing: screw jack or ratcheted lever or hydraulics or pneumatics for lifting (remember many pro joiners/carpenters will already have air tools & compressors). Toggle clamps for holding.

Best of luck with your studies.
 
Thanks, i've looked into the patents available online and there are a few things i can take from them but most are very bulking, something that chippies wouldnt want to carry around. I'll definately try and incorporate some small hydraulics or pneumatics to take the load. Think this will be the strongest and most efficient.

Cheers for your response very much appreciated
 
design a pair of folding wedges and hope that no-one you show them to is a joiner.
 
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i don't like it when the door wants to tip towards or away from me when trying to locate the hinges into the frame/casing.

:idea: the fitter is trying to hold a (cordless) screwdriver, the door and the screw whilst trying to locate the hinges, so using ones feet becomes VERY important. :idea:
 
i think this is something that will need to be robust and cheap,ive got a board lifter that i dont use :rolleyes: and depending on the weight of the door doesnt work properly anyway,if im doing a lot of doors i set up a measuring stick.good luck with it anyway.
 
The piece of equipment you are trying to re-invent as been around since roman times may be even earlier. It’s a very complicated piece of kit and it takes all of a minute to learn how to use it and about the same time to make one. And the cost well that’s out of this world it cost all of zero pence. And what is this supper tool that cost nothing and only takes a minute or less to be trained in its use. It’s a wedge shaped piece of wood. You place a ten pence piece between the head of the door frame and the door and place wedge under the bottom of the door.
 
Whilst all the posting make valid points, Jack's task will probably have been determined by his lecturer as an 'intellectual' exercise, and not one that will not necessarily have real commercial outcomes. I'm sure his ideas board will include the penny-spacer tip, and others; all will gain him extra marks come assessment time.
 
Whilst all the posting make valid points, Jack's task will probably have been determined by his lecturer as an 'intellectual' exercise, and not one that will not necessarily have real commercial outcomes. I'm sure his ideas board will include the penny-spacer tip, and others; all will gain him extra marks come assessment time.

The OP would get full marks from me if he presented me a prototype that consisted of a timber wedge and ten pence spacer. It would show me that you can not re-invent the wheel and the guy was thinking of the simplest thing first. This will leave him free to design a method of putting a quart in a pint pot.
 
a 2p coin is ~2.09mm thick. A 10p coin is ~1.86mm thick. How sad is that!
 

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