door lock + auto electrics

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hi guys tried to repair a door lock on my daughters seat ibiza cable to outside handle detached, refitted and door locked both sides inoperatable.

bought second had door from scrap yard stripped it down for all salvagable parts and repaced the locked as needed tested what i could door opened and closed no problems so refitted door cards both metal and plastic locked car up usinf central locking and guess what ...door wont open both sides inoperatable.

so im now guessing it aint the lock at fault but could be electrical problem to the lock. however when we use the key fob we can hear a clunk from the lock so aint sure.

ive uploaded diagram on next post but im useless at auto electrics and need some guidance as to what im doing and what voltages i should be acheiving ect. i say useless coz weve only learned series circuit and parralel circuit of what it does, soldered a wire and fitted connectors.


where i need help

diagnosis of problem.

parts on diagram that im unsure off is the convenience control system..what is it where is it??
on board power supply control unit again aint got a clue never seen one so dont know what it looks like or where it is located.

how to test each circuit and gathering results

multi meter use off, ive only got a cheap nasty one does black probe go into COM and red into 10ADC meter has three ports com V/OMEGA/mA COM AND 10ADC.
 
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Yes can be daunting

Measuring Voltage around the car circuits
V/Ohm/mA = Red Lead (usually used to probe the circuit to find battery voltage)
Com = Black Lead (usually connected to a good steel earth point)
Set to 20volts --------- DC
You cannot burnout a voltmeter or indeed damage a circuit using it.

We only use the 10ADC (current) terminal when we have to (never)

The guys that work on these systems day in, day out, find them hard work, so don't stress to much.

Convenience Control Unit is a black box which can be mounted anywhere in the car, Power Control unit on the VAG cars (Seat) usually combined with the fuse box under the bonnet.

Before we get started, will the boot/tailgate work as it should? I'll have another wee look at the circuit diagram

Just, check to see if you have battery voltage both sides of fuseable link F2 and check fuse F20, or just repalce with a known good fuse. F2 will be a black yoke (box) on the red (positive+) lead close the the battery terminal and F20 should be labelled in the fuse box
 
haynes diagrams are not that accurate, im not sure why.
The convinience module takes control of various functions such as locking, windows etc its like a mini computer and i think its situated under the drivers side fascia area(under the steering wheel)
The power module as you call it is usually situated in the doors on vag group cars, im not totally sure on what it does.
Can you get someone to run a diagnostics check on it as a vag/seat specific scan tool should pick up any faults
 
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thanks mursal ill work on it in the morning, boot and drivers door open ok.

i think i know where the (110) convenience control unit is, if diagram showing diagnostic tester in centre section of diargram.

ive been looking at the diagram and wouldnt mind asking, in the centre section there are a series of numbers to each output (presumed to be live outputs)...the numbers from unit 110 leading to 112( passenger door) show numbers like 23/21, 23/19, 23/2 do these numbers represent something ie output terminal numbers or anything like that, as i know on unit 112 the numbers are the input terminal numbers.
 
To get a feel of the diagram

The motor (M) pins (1 and 2) on passenger door lock (112) connects to the control unit (pins 21 and 19). This allows the motor to turn in one direction (lock) for example when pin1 is at 12 volts and pin2 is at 0volts.
To turn the motor in the opposite direction (unlock), the polarity is reversed and pin2 = 12volts and pin1 = 0volts
So we say the motor is "floating"

The motor also controls 2 switches (shown by the dotted line coming from the bottom of the motor to the first 2 switches) pin6 and pin3 is connected to earth (pin7) when the motor goes to probably rest position. As pin6 of the door lock unit is connected to pin2 of the control unit, this lets the convenience unit know where the motor is in the lock/unlock cycle. Or also known as the "feedback" circuit.

Possible Convenience/Comfort control unit location
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=202256



Hope this helps and not hinders you, in your understanding of the circuit. Other members will be able to explain it more clearly to you, so hold tight.

Good idea to get the fault codes read, as above especially if the easy stuff doesn't work.
 
thanks guys, im going to test voltages today and get a freind to pop down with his diagnostic reader, ill let you know the outcome of my testing today to ensure the readings are as they should be and for further advice.
again thanks

terry
 
hi guys,
ive taken voltage reading form the near side door the readings are as follows

at door connector
terminal 7 neutral to 5 constant live = 12.99 volts
terminal 7 to 8(on board power supply unit) engine off 3.09 v engine on 0 volts.

terminal 7 to 1 door unlock 7 to 9 volts
terminal 7 to 2 door lock 7 to 9 volts

my conclusions may be wrong in saying that reading 7 to 1+2 are edded to power supply 8 to 8 making upto 12 volts combined, but i could be wrong.

door lock mechanisms tested by hand to full extent door does not open
central locking activated open locked...door does not open though mechanism make clunk noise
central locking activated tested drivers door does not open from either side

conclusion though may be wrong is that central locking not deactivated to that lock hence locked both sides though i could be wrong.

any further advice welcomed and will breaking lock to bit free up the lock as to open and changing the lock yet again.

thanks
terry
 
Did you get the fault codes yet?

When you get the fault codes we can start getting into the more involved stuff. In my opinion you cant go any further without the codes.

They will hopefully give you some direction

Fuses check out ok?
 
only checked drivers side fuse box fuse numbers 40 upwards as im yet unsure where fuses 1 to 40 are and unable to locate the engine bay fuses prior to ecu fro fuse F2 i think it is.
ill get back to you soon as ive got the diagnostic tester for fault codes
 
yeah lol bit of the old dukes of hazards style to get in passenfer side
thanks for the links ill search em now
 
hi mursal , thanks for all your help

i think ive solved the problem today, went to car and sprung the outside door handle cable from it housing and straight away the central locking clunked so i used the keyfob to unlock and it opened straight away, ive tested it a few times open close lock unlock and it now appears to be ok.

despite levers sitting correctly, that millimetre out appears to jar the dead locks half way.

problem now solved in last ditch effort

thanks for all the help
 
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