Doors not closing

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I have brass door furniture dating from 1994 (if that’s relevant) and most of my internal doors won’t close. This seems to be because (not sure of my terminology here) doors don't close far enough into the frame for the little angled latch to spring into the recess of the striker plate.



I speculate this is because the doors and frames have been painted so many times they're all too thick now.



Is there any easy way of rectifying this? I can’t think of anything other than filing the hole in the door frame a bit, and that seems like a right proctalgia
 
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photos would help a lot.

Sorry, didn't think they would tell you much...

IMAG1323.jpg
IMAG1322.jpg
IMAG1321.jpg
 
yes, the paint is very thick, but I also see that the striking plate has previously been moved sideways from its original position.

Have the doors been changed? How thick are they? Interior doors are usually 35mm thick, but fire doors (which may be fitted after, say, a loft conversion) are 44mm.
 
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yes, the paint is very thick, but I also see that the striking plate has previously been moved sideways from its original position.


Have the doors been changed? How thick are they? Interior doors are usually 35mm thick, but fire doors (which may be fitted after, say, a loft conversion) are 44mm.




Yes, that’s really obvious now you point it out. Sadly I don’t know the history of the house, except that the previous occupant was a professional bodger… I’ve only lived here 3 months.



I *doubt* if the doors have been changed though – they look original, and the 35 layers of paint overlap the brass furniture too… also the handles were so stiff you could hardly open or close the doors, till I took them off and lubricated them, so I assume it’s all original.



Thing is, that door I’ve photographed does close if I pull it hard, so it’s NEARLY right.



PS have just gone round the house, and EVERY striker plate has been moved… oddly one of them has been moved OUT (if you see what I mean) and all the rest IN.



Doors are 35mm.
 
you could move the striker plates out a bit. You might find an old screwhole. if not in the right place, you can drill them out and glue in a matching piece of dowel.

I don't know a source of spare striking plates (preferably larger) with the screwholes in different positions.

If the stop on the frame that the door closes onto is nailed or screwed on, you could move it. But with that horrible paint it will be a nasty job.
 
you can drill them out and glue in a matching piece of dowel.

Now that I wouldn't have thought of - thanks :D

Having said that, my feeling is that they're out by only a fraction of a millimetre, so I'll probably try filing one a little to see how it goes...
 
If it were me I'd leave the striker plates alone unless the latch wasn't lining up height wise in which case the striker would need lifting or lowering, if the latch lines up albeit doesn't go back far enough to latch then I'd be inclined to file the hole bigger or put a leading edge so to speak on the back of the spring latch, I'd probably use a dremel too for speed
 
If it were me I'd leave the striker plates alone unless the latch wasn't lining up height wise in which case the striker would need lifting or lowering, if the latch lines up albeit doesn't go back far enough to latch then I'd be inclined to file the hole bigger or put a leading edge so to speak on the back of the spring latch, I'd probably use a dremel too for speed

Yeah the height seems fine, so I think that's what I'll do :D
 
Make sure hinges are tight with no protruding screws as this will prevent the door closing fully.Easy to move strike plate, just tap a timber into existing hole which will allow you to move a small amount.
 

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