dot-n-dab to create a cavity wall

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I’ve got microbore central heating in my house which is also drop feed into my living room, kitchen etc. I’m starting to decorate the living room and had a plasterer come round to see about skimming the walls and ceiling. My original plan was to chase the walls to hide the drop feed microbore, as well as extra cables I’ll install for sky, extra sockets in the room, telephone cables etc so I needed to know how deep the chases would have to be for him to be able to effectively skim over them.

However, he has suggested using a ‘dot-n-dab’ to create a small cavity between the original wall and he new plasterboard. I’m planning to use small 12.5mm plaster board dabs to give me the space for the cavity, then a 12.5mm full board over that to create the new wall. This gives me a nice cavity size for which to lay the new cabling straight onto the original wall without having to chase, and lets me route the pipework a little easier too. I’m going to use hep20 microbore, route it down the cavity and exit the plaster board just below the rad valves so as to keep it nice and neat.

However, my problem is now how to hang the radiators, pictures, curtain pole and any other bits I need to from this ‘false’ wall. I’ll have to go deep enough to get to the original wall underneath, but this means I’ll need 1” before I’ve even made contact with the original wall underneath. And with the weight of a radiator/curtain rail I don’t want that levering into the plasterboard wall (whereas with a solid wall it would hold it flat and tight). Should I fix some 12.5mm mdf to those sections I know I’ll need to drill before putting the plasterboard sheet over it?

Can anyone see any problems with this method I’m going to use?
 
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the one thing you should remember is board adhesive, or any adhesive for that matter, is only as good or sound as the surface it is sticking to.

if you try and stick something to flaky paint, it will obviously fall of once weight is added to the adhesive.

if the existing substrate is sound then your idea is ok. just bear in mind window boards may need replacing where applicable.

as for fixing, i suggest you get used to using a minimum length screw of 75mm.

when applying the dabs make sure you apply them generously where you will fix radiator brackets, skirting boards, or anything that is likely to compress the plasterboard.
 
would I have to ensure that the raw plug gets pushsed in all the way to the edge of where the original wall is - I dont want only half the rawplug sitting in the original wall with the other half sitting out in the cavity.

And the wall the adhesive will be applied to is painted with emulsion - seems sound enough to me but should I give it a light sanding to provde a 'key' for the adhesive? Or criss-cross it woth a flat blade screwdriver/stanley knife?
 
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[quote="mk2phil"
would I have to ensure that the raw plug gets pushsed in all the way to the edge of where the original wall is
yes.

And the wall the adhesive will be applied to is painted with emulsion - seems sound enough to me but should I give it a light sanding to provde a 'key' for the adhesive? Or criss-cross it woth a flat blade screwdriver/stanley knife?
a coat of 3:1 diluted pva would be useful too.
 

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