double glazing

[HelpDIY]

we are planning to have our whole double glazed and need your advice on:
1) what to look for in a good double glaze, are there different glass, frame types?
2) any good company around London area
thanks

 

[squowse]

i would recommend wood, but choose your company carefully.
the big names will charge you a fortune. they will have to make the same profit as upvc.
some joiners will still knock up badly detailed softwood windows that are widely discredited now.

things i would be looking for

1) a durable wood, ie hardwood or suitably guaranteed treated softwood.
2) drained and ventilated construction (can be hard to find)
3) factory finished (ie paint) windows with guarantees.
4) multipoint locks

glass - building regs are quite strict on this now. low "E" glass is complusory. soft-coat low "E", argon fill, thermal "warmedge" spacer bar are all desirable extras that shouldn't add too much cost.
safety glass is a requirement on windows that people can fall through, and can help make it more difficult for burglars to get in that way.

check my website for more links.
also these guys have a lot of info on modern hi-spec windows.
http://www.timberwindows.com/assets/brochure.pdf

 

[Richard C]

Just to balance things if your looking for UPVC, Ive dredged this up from one of my old posts but there is a lot more advice on the forum so you should have a good read back through the archive posts.

-------------------
I’ve pulled together much of the standard stuff here & added some of my personal views & experience.

Very few companies make their own windows nowadays; they mostly come from larger regional factories. The quality of name branded units is generally comparable so its installation quality that makes the difference. You won’t necessarily get a better product/installation from the large national companies but you will probably pay a lot more for the privilege. Get written quotes from at least 3 smaller, local companies & make sure they list exactly whet they are providing; I initially approached 10 but many of those fell quickly by the wayside! Look closely at the quality of the frame welding, fittings & locking mechanisms, ask to see a very recent & much older installation (18-24 months) & make sure you speak to the customer themselves for a reference. Make sure the company includes for any scaffolding needed for installation access - a popular ‘extra’ charge once you’ve committed! Get them to include fitting new, good quality internal cill boards (Pollyboard is good) & they at least include making good externally – internally as well if you want it. Don’t pay more than 20% up front (10% if you can get away with it), don’t pay the balance until you’re entirely happy with the work & get an independent 10 year warranty if you can. Never, ever sign up for a ‘special deal’ on the day – they aren’t special & you’ll probably get ripped off. Get written quotes, ask questions & decide in your own time; if they try & pressure you, cross them off your list!

Double glazed units should be manufactured by a FENSA registered company in accordance with parts F and N of The Building Regulations. 70mm frames, 28mm glazing units with 20mm air gap are the norm, the vents are called ‘trickle vents’. Replacement windows (except conservatories) must have low “e” glass to meet thermal requirements (Pilkington ‘K’), it’s not an option & shouldn’t be presented to you as a extra! Door glass and any adjacent window panels below 1500mm from finished floor level must have toughened glass, as must all windows with a cill height below 800mm. Regulations only require that replacement windows are no worse than the original installation with regard to escape & ventilation so you don’t have to fit trickle vents unless they were previously fitted & fire escape windows unless you want them (another popular extra!) but obviously these may be desirable in specific locations. The installer doesn’t have to be FENSA registered but it makes life easier & make sure you get the certificate. If non-registered (& there are some good ones), make sure they notify BC about the work, get it inspected & that BC provide the necessary conformance certificate on completion or you could have future problems selling; & make sure the installer pays for it!

 

[HelpDIY]

Hi Richard, thanks for your advice. I don't think I fully understand some of the technical words in your message and should be grateful ifyou could furnish me further:
1) what is internal cill boards
2) what is multilocks
3) do you know of any good companies in london, kent areas
thanks

Just to balance things if your looking for UPVC, Ive dredged this up from one of my old posts but there is a lot more advice on the forum so you should have a good read back through the archive posts.

-------------------
I’ve pulled together much of the standard stuff here & added some of my personal views & experience.

Very few companies make their own windows nowadays; they mostly come from larger regional factories. The quality of name branded units is generally comparable so its installation quality that makes the difference. You won’t necessarily get a better product/installation from the large national companies but you will probably pay a lot more for the privilege. Get written quotes from at least 3 smaller, local companies & make sure they list exactly whet they are providing; I initially approached 10 but many of those fell quickly by the wayside! Look closely at the quality of the frame welding, fittings & locking mechanisms, ask to see a very recent & much older installation (18-24 months) & make sure you speak to the customer themselves for a reference. Make sure the company includes for any scaffolding needed for installation access - a popular ‘extra’ charge once you’ve committed! Get them to include fitting new, good quality internal cill boards (Pollyboard is good) & they at least include making good externally – internally as well if you want it. Don’t pay more than 20% up front (10% if you can get away with it), don’t pay the balance until you’re entirely happy with the work & get an independent 10 year warranty if you can. Never, ever sign up for a ‘special deal’ on the day – they aren’t special & you’ll probably get ripped off. Get written quotes, ask questions & decide in your own time; if they try & pressure you, cross them off your list!

Double glazed units should be manufactured by a FENSA registered company in accordance with parts F and N of The Building Regulations. 70mm frames, 28mm glazing units with 20mm air gap are the norm, the vents are called ‘trickle vents’. Replacement windows (except conservatories) must have low “e” glass to meet thermal requirements (Pilkington ‘K’), it’s not an option & shouldn’t be presented to you as a extra! Door glass and any adjacent window panels below 1500mm from finished floor level must have toughened glass, as must all windows with a cill height below 800mm. Regulations only require that replacement windows are no worse than the original installation with regard to escape & ventilation so you don’t have to fit trickle vents unless they were previously fitted & fire escape windows unless you want them (another popular extra!) but obviously these may be desirable in specific locations. The installer doesn’t have to be FENSA registered but it makes life easier & make sure you get the certificate. If non-registered (& there are some good ones), make sure they notify BC about the work, get it inspected & that BC provide the necessary conformance certificate on completion or you could have future problems selling; & make sure the installer pays for it!

 

[Richard C]

Hi Richard, thanks for your advice. I don't think I fully understand some of the technical words in your message and should be grateful ifyou could furnish me further:
1) what is internal cill boards

The window cills inside the house at the bottom of the window. You should budget to replace these because your old ones will look cack against the new windows, will no longer fit properly & are likely to get damaged anyway.

2) what is multilocks

I don’t think I actually used that term but it means muti-point locking system. This doesn’t just rely on a central locking deadbolt; on doors the best ones will use a central deadlock with a hook & roller pin locking system along the full height of the door edge so locking it in position all the way up the jamb & not just in the centre. Look for a similar system on the windows which should have a central dead bolt + locking pins up the side or at least top & bottom + shoot bolts into the top & bottom of the frame; they should also have heel locks which dig in at each corner of the hinge side when shut to deter jemmying of the hinge side, these should preferably be steel but plastic is better than nothing at all.

3) do you know of any good companies in london, kent areas
thanks

I always advise to contact local companies on personal recommendation rather than the multi-nationals; they often use the same products, are cheaper &, as I said, their reputation is (should be) very important to them, more so in the current climate. You need to look at a few windows brands to start to appreciate the difference in quality on many of them. Remember, you only get what you pay for but the most expensive quote is not always the best product & good fitting is the crucial factor.