Downstairs Shower leak - pipe bitten - How to fix this?

[diy457]

We have a downstairs shower which has a plastic piping that goes attaches to the waste pipe - the builders 10 years ago should have used metal (!).

We found out recently that rats have chewed this plastic and the shower drains on to the floor below the floor boards. We started smelling damp from under the stairs cupboard. See pics.

The white pipe is coming down from the shower drain and is was attached to the external waste pipe to the right (pipe with expanding foam around it).

How do I fix this?
- I think I have to remove the folding door.
- Break the lower row of tiles as it sits on the shower base.
- Remove the shower base
- Replace the plastic pipe / all drain parts with metal.
- Install everything back and make good the tiles.
- Find rat entry and seal.

Is this the way? I think so but I thought I'd check. I was thinking to call a plumber but if its just replacing that pipe then I'll do it myself.

Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

The photo from underneath (from a ring camera we put there today) is access from the other side of the stud wall - under the water softener cabinet which we removed for access - but it does not look possible to get enough access to do it from there. Too many pipes and wires and not a big enough access.

Under water softener. Not enough space to reach the pipe. Not great pic - dont want to open it again today.

 

[Madrab]

Need to get close access down there obviously and then use rigid pipe. Wouldn't normally be metal pipe as not easy to fit nor cheap but neither should it be a flexi pipe in that situation unless the pipe was fitted to the trap and outflow with the tray up and then the tray dropped down.

Solvent weld would be ideal but only if the black pipe in the wall isn't push fit.

 

[diy457]

Need to get close access down there obviously and then use rigid pipe. Wouldn't normally be metal pipe as not easy to fit nor cheap but neither should it be a flexi pipe in that situation unless the pipe was fitted to the trap and outflow with the tray up and then the tray dropped down.

Solvent weld would be ideal but only if the black pipe in the wall isn't push fit.

So the only way would be to remove the shower base as I have described? Im pretty sure it is but wanted to double check.

The pipe is fitted to the trap and then it bends down to the wall. I dont know what the wall pipe joint is.

 

[Madrab]

If you have no other way down there then yes, tray needs lifted. Hard piped waste with the trap is situ then lower the tray down and catch the trap. It'll take a bit of lining up but like everything with enough juggling it can be made to work.

yes....

Door and frame off > row of tiles out (fixed to plasterboard?) > try and lift tray (how easy depends on how it's been secured down/in) > fit rigid pipe to the outflow and run up to tray location and attach to shower trap, test fit tray down to ensure tray catches trap and the trap can be caught and tightened from above > refit everything in reverse with the possibility of replacement plasterboard (may want to tank the walls too).

 

[diy457]

If you have no other way down there then yes, tray needs lifted. Hard piped waste with the trap is situ then lower the tray down and catch the trap. It'll take a bit of lining up but like everything with enough juggling it can be made to work.

yes....

Door and frame off > row of tiles out (fixed to plasterboard?) > try and lift tray (how easy depends on how it's been secured down/in) > fit rigid pipe to the outflow and run up to tray location and attach to shower trap, test fit tray down to ensure tray catches trap and the trap can be caught and tightened from above > refit everything in reverse with the possibility of replacement plasterboard (may want to tank the walls too).

Seems like a hard job if lining up trap without visual. But I only half know what you mean. Do you have a link for what I need.

The last pic I added shows how the flexi plastic pipe attaches to the trap.

I could do rigid from the wall right up to the trap then I could I use something flexi right up close so I dont have to be precise right at the end? And the flexi bit would be up and away from the reach of the rats - but we are hoping to find the entry and block them.

Thanks for your replies so far.

 

[Madrab]

Seems like a hard job if lining up trap without visual

It's not really, if the waste is hard piped and glued then it can be held in the correct position so when the tray is dropped down the waste hole lines up with the trap. I will agree though that it does take a bit of experience though to make it easier. I don't know if there are any links that show what I mean though TBH.

Your installers used one of these -

Flexi's can be ok when used correctly but your big problem is obviously vermin ingress and I'd suggest that stopping them is your primary goal, then a flexi wouldn't be so much of a problem. Rats can get everywhere though so very little is out of their reach unfortunately.

 

[opps]

Have you addressed the rat problem?

You are "lucky" that they didn't chew through one of the water pipes.

 

[diy457]

The rat problem will be dealt with but not yet. The water pipes have been like that for 10 years. We were worried at the time but we've never had a problem. Either way it's going to be sorted over the coming weeks / 2 months. We are going to open the flooring of the whole down stairs 1/4 by 1/4 and seal any holes we find. The Ring camera has identified something - on an another cam - but we are not sure if thats the only way they have got in. I don't like it but its life I guess - Got to deal with it properly.

Seal holes and maybe mesh the whole thing... somehow do it properly so its secure for decades if possible.

 

[opps]

The rat problem will be dealt with but not yet. The water pipes have been like that for 10 years. We were worried at the time but we've never had a problem. Either way it's going to be sorted over the coming weeks / 2 months. We are going to open the flooring of the whole down stairs 1/4 by 1/4 and seal any holes we find. The Ring camera has identified something - on an another cam - but we are not sure if thats the only way they have got in. I don't like it but its life I guess - Got to deal with it properly.

Seal holes and maybe mesh the whole thing... somehow do it properly so its secure for decades if possible.

Other than sand/cement, small holes can be plugged with rough wire wool and covered with expanding foam. Although rats can eat through the foam, they won't chew through the wire wool because it cuts their noses.

 

[Madrab]

Either that or use chicken wire scrunched/bundled up, their teeth cant get a purchase on it and can't chew through it.

 

[opps]

Either that or use chicken wire scrunched/bundled up, their teeth cant get a purchase on it and can't chew through it.

Yeah, I recently had to use chicken wire in the loft to stop squirrels that had chewed through a customer's soffit. I screwed it down using washers. Seems to have done the job