Drainage outside kitchen (sink/gutter) cracked = new damp issue

[sparkyshark]

hi all,

We have a damp issue in the kitchen just posted a thread in the painting forum.

I believe the root cause is below. The question I have is can I fix it with some chemical solution and if so what?

Or do I have to rip it out which I don’t fancy doing...


Cheers,
Sparky

 

[Madrab]

The salt glaze has cracked ... needs dug out and replaced.

Could you line it with a piece of soil pipe, hmmmm .... what are the dimensions?

 

[sparkyshark]

I'll check the dimensions tomorrow and get back to you.
Surprised you can't glue it with something though with all the stuff out there
When you say line it with a soil pipe. I'm guessing you mean stick a soil pipe in the middle of it and then cement all around the side?

 

[Madrab]

Salt glaze is almost impossible to 'repair' it's hard fired clay and it's in a drain so an adhesive rarely works.

If you're not prepared to dig it up then lining and mortar would probably be the only way to make it water tight again, if it isn't also cracked further down.

 

[sparkyshark]

oh man! okay let me get some dimensions tomorrow and we'll go from there.
not having much luck in this house
Cheers again.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Not as difficult as you might think to replace, as long as you dont mind a bit of digging and shovelling. Photo from a bit further away showing the surrounding area may help determine quite how much work is going to be involved!

 

[amfisted]

Perhaps as a fellow DIYer I could provide some encouragement.

I had similar issues with cracked gullies, so I came here for advice. I was given good guidance, good enough to encourage me to tackle the job myself. I dug out two cracked gullies(one rainwater only, one the kitchen sink and washing machine outflow) and replaced both the gullies and a few feet of pipework, joining them to the sound part of the salt glaze with adaptors. I also dug down about four feet to replace a piece of salt glaze which had been penetrated by and choked with roots in another part of the system, splicing in a section of plastic pipe, again using adaptors. Four years on its all still working fine ( the water disappears underground, anyhow).

Moral of the story: come here, as you have done, ask questions (even if they seem like daft ones) absorb the information, clarify if need be, make a plan and have a go. Better still if when you start the job you have someone with you who knows what they're doing, but I didn't and I still managed it. Good luck.

 

[sparkyshark]

Hi all, thanks for all the comments.

I'm going to attempt to to it myself and will dig further including break out the current gully and locate the rest of the pipe work.
The new paint as posted in the other thread is starting to peel off badly and this issue needs to be fixed. https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/...issue-which-paint-to-use.550435/#post-4702017

Could some one please guide me as to possible spare parts so I can start to look into the replacements.
For example what would i need from here or elsewhere as a start https://www.screwfix.com/search?search=gully ?
6244K ?or would i need something like 19993 ? I then can figure out the connections required as I hopefully go along.

Thanks again.

 

[amfisted]

6244K is the gully I bought and which suited my purposes as a straight swap for my existing gullies, but you won't know exactly what else to buy till you begin to dig and find out what the installation looks like. Though its a fairly safe bet that you'll need a length of drainage pipe ( 25648) and a connector to join plastic to the existing salt glaze pipe( 19914). Hopefully there'll be no other damage.

I'll leave any further advice to the experts, but in the meantime there's some useful reading about drainage here also. https://www.pavingexpert.com/

 

[sparkyshark]

Cool thanks amfisted. I'll be back when digging further tomorrow... watch this space.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Gulley, I would look at using this one, https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-d530-back-inlet-bottle-gully/12051, fit a 90° bend into the back inlet, with an adaptor to accept the 68mm downpipe. Are there any other pipes discharging into the existing gulley?

Dig back from the old gulley and expose a decent section of pipework, be mindful of any other services that may be present, and also any other drains as they are easily disturbed/damaged by over zealous digging, dont want to be replacing any more than you have to! Once you've uncovered your pipework, using an angle grinder with a stone disc, carefully cut through the pipe, and remove old gulley arrangement. Chamfer edges of pipe, and fit suitable clay to plastic coupler, e.g. https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-underground-flexible-adaptor-110mm/19914

Position new Gulley, and from the outlet, measure up and arrange 110mm plastic to meet cut end of existing drain. If you need to use a couple of bend's to alter height/angle to connect onto the old pipework this wont matter.

 

[sparkyshark]

Latest update, dug a bit further and the whole thing is incased in concreate

I do t think I can do much without breaking into it and the clay pipe that’s in cased in it...

 

[sparkyshark]

Looks like we also have issues further down - the clay is very wet. Which I don’t believe is normal.

It’s looking like we’ll need to break up the entire connection to the sewer section. Am wondering how we would insert a new pipe into that...

 

[Nige F]

Latest update, dug a bit further and the whole thing is incased in concreate

I do t think I can do much without breaking into it and the clay pipe that’s in cased in it..[] View attachment 201378

Is that channel coming through a wall ??

 

[Nige F]

Can you stand back and photo the wall and it's pipework. also one of the open manhole to see depth and connections.