Drainage question

[Mikest]

Hope some one can help me with this.
I'm building a ground floor toilet and need to connect the drain up to the main run.
the drain line is going straight through the extension part of the house (directly below the ground i wish to make toilet room)

can any one advise best way of doing this. the drain line is running horizontally across. i think i would need T junction with a 4inch pipe.
What the best way in making the connection do i need one of those couplers with out the stoppers on them?

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

You'll need to fit a manhole at the point where the new drain to the W.C. joins the existing run. It needs to be accessible in the event of a blockage.

Depending on material used in existing drain, suitable couplings are available to allow you to break into the run to make the connection.

Useful guide here: http://www.pavingexpert.com/drain15.htm

 

[Richard C]

You should also be aware that creating a room with a new toilet is controlled building work, subject to several Building Regulations, LABC inspection & possible witness test.

 

[Blagard]

Hope some one can help me with this.
I'm building a ground floor toilet and need to connect the drain up to the main run.

The link below will help give you an idea of drainage requirements. Your idea to use a just a T junction will not work because it will not allow rodding access to the branch. That is why you need a manhole. As pointed out by the other posters, your drain will have to be passed by building control, not only with respect to workmanship and water tightness, but also in design.

http://www.dfpni.gov.uk/drainage.pdf

 

[Mikest]

Are you saying the manhole should go in the bathroom?

 

[Blagard]

Are you saying the manhole should go in the bathroom?

No, the fact that your drain also goes under the bathroom does not mean you have to connect it there. Having said that, you can have internal manholes, but I for one would rather keep them external. Internal ones are unsightly things. The small manholes are actually called inspection chambers. You can google "internal manhole cover" to see some of what is available if you really have to!

EDIT: One example http://www.drainageonline.co.uk/Man...0mm-Square-Recessed-Manhole-Cover-&-Frame.htm

 

[Mikest]

To get a better understand I already have rodding access at both sides of the run one manhole that i have is in the front drive way and another in the rear garden (rodding gully).

The toilet drain will be connected into the center of the drain run and and taken horizontally 1 meter away to which a toilet sink and shower will be connected to.

Do i still need a separate rodding access for this?
IF so what tpye?
And would it be only to rod from toilet to main drain run which is 1meter away.

I also have another question regarding a bend in the drain run. At the front of the house the drain has a bend and then goes in to manhole.
i suppose the usual drain rods would (havent tried) not rod through the bend in to manhole.

what is the best way to overcome that?

 

[theoldun]

With the greatest respect to you Hugh, the manhole problem can be overcome with either a Osma SW/S 90degree access WC connector manifold, a P/E 90 degree ditto or possibly a stub stack.
Depending on existing drain run material. If plastic, fit equal junction, be it 45 or 87.5 deg with slip couplers, if salt glazed use Flexseal or similar rubber drain couplers.
Just seen your last post and now it has gone from toilet to bathroom, in which case you will possibly need a stub stack. Would also appear to be part and parcel of extension, in which case you may need a new IC in the existing line.
Your main problem is that if you did go in on a junction You will need air test on the old line as well as the new line.
Post a sketch.
oldun

 

[Mikest]

Untitled

• Mikest
• 20 Aug 2011
• 1

Does this help?

> Should i place a rodding access into the soil stacks?

> What kind of rodding access should i have in back garden? bearing in mind i need a gully there too for kitchen waste.

> and also the bend at the front may be (haven't tried yet) a hindrance for rodding through. What can i do there?

Thanks in advance

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Partly my fault for not reading the initial post properly, dont worry Oldun. (My personal preference is to see a manhole outside, trying to clear blockages is messy at the best of times, at least when your working outside its easier to clean up! However, in this instance as the existing drain will run internally when works are complete, this isnt relevant! )

Either way Mikest, you'll need to make sure the new section of drain is accessible for clearance should need arise. I would speak to the Building Inspector, as he's the man on the ground and will ultimately need to approve the work, so is best placed to advise on exactly what he wants to see.

There's nothing you can do with the bend other than dig it up and relay the drain. If rods wont go round then a jetter will so I shouldn't worry about that. Rods definately wont go around a 90deg bend hence the importance of providing access to any lateral connections.

(Jetter probably wont go round either, unless you dont want it to... Wont be first time, one of my collegues had a jetting nozzle head the wrong way along a connection, it smashed through the crown of the trap on the W.C. spraying water in all directions. Only saving grace, it was an outside W.C. so good mop up and new pan later.... )

 

[Mikest]

Thanks hugh, Im not very happy with idea of no rodding access to be honest.
Thats a new drain run with a new manhole. I had some come install it for me.
Initailly my manhole was on the inside of garage right next to the gable end wall.
I had it moved away from the gable as i may have had to put a pillar up at the front to erect a two story extension in future.

Aswell as the fact i'd now have to call out a specailist drain unblocking service every time the drain blocks up, i'd also have no other option if the the jet fails to unblock the drain.
i dont know if this is a option but if its that big of a concern could i get the the council or who evers in charge of the external drain to move the line a little to get rid of bend?

Undoubtedly theres going to be a charge for this any ideas how much?

Also the distance from the manhole on drive to the drain in the back garden is around 13 meters. Is that ok?

And what kind of rodding access should i put in the back garden? I currently have a 4inch pipe coming out under the back kichen wall.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Mikest]

Hugh im still very concerned about the drainage do you have any suggestions?

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Cant quite tell from the drawing where pipes are going, but main factor is to ensure all pipework is accessible for clearance. Building regs allow a bend immediately outside an Inspection chamber, if that is the case I wouldnt worry too much. (Jetter will only struggle if the blockage is really solid, e.g. collapsed drain.)

Drains on your property are your responsibility, although shared drains (where 2 or more properties use the run) will come under the Water Authority remit in the Autumn when the rules change. Any work on drains that are your responsibility is down to you.

13 metres isn't a problem. If the pipe coming through the kitchen wall runs in a straight line to the manhole then fit a rodding eye on the end if desired.

 

[Mikest]

Thankyou Hugh.

Whats your thoughts on getting rid of the bend by asking the council or whoever resposible to move there drain. Undoubtedly there must be a cost involved but i just dont like the idea of no being able to rod straight out.

Its just a thought, I worry a lot

Also i have another question regarding a wall built horizontally over the drain pipe.
The builder never used a lintel he used blocks to build the wall and bridged the pipe over with the block bonding. He then filled in the gap with cement.
Whats your thoughts on this?

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

I would stop worrying, otherwise you'll be spending a load of money you dont need to. If the drain has been working without a problem then its unlikely a problem will develop overnight. The main concern is to get you new work right.

A drain coming through a wall should have a lintel over it to remove the weight from the pipe. A lintel could be retrofitted should need be. I'd have a chat with the Building Inspector, he can see the layout on (well under) the ground and so may be best placed to allay your fears.