draining down central heating...

[paul78]

Iv been asked to drain down a heating system with a back boiler for plastering purposes.

I need to get the plastering all done before the new system is installed.

New rads will be fitted with a new combi heating system so Question is once drained down and rads removed could john guest push fit stop ends be fitted to all the flow and return pipes in the meantime until the new system is installed in approx 1 week.

Sorry if this sounds stupid, thanks

 

[seco services]

if your not going to use the system again after draining why bother with stopends ?

 

[cajar]

I guess to stop bits of plaster and dust getting in the pipes? He says the boiler and rads will be replaced but not the pipes.

OP, yeah you can do this.

 

[paul78]

yes to stop plaster etc getting clogged inside.

pipes are staying, just the back boiler and tanks etc are going.

the owner will still need to use hot-cold water in the meantime so am i correct in thinking that wont be affected if i leave the heating system drained???

So how do i keep the heating drained permanent and still have access to hot-cold water??

 

[seco services]

So how do i keep the heating drained permanent and still have access to hot-cold water??

cap heating flow/return at boiler

 

[paul78]

not too sure if im confident in attempting that one,

if i turn everything off and tied up the float in the f&e tank to drain the system then remove rads and attatch the speedfits then undone the float and turned everything back on would the speedfits hold the water pressure coming through??

sorry if im sounding silly.

ps. i wanted the heating engineer to do this bit 1st but hes too busy and i need to get in to get the plastering done.

 

[seco services]

why not just leave the rad valves on and close them and remove
the rads only to plaster then you don't have to drain system at all.

you won't get a speedfit on if you remove the rad valves aswell
cause the olive will still be on the pipe.
you'd have to remove olive/nut aswell.

 

[paul78]

usually id close the trv or valve and close the lockshield then remove rad but this system is so old and the lockshield wont budge on the 1st one iv tried, and im just a bit scared to apply too much pressure as i dont want to do some serious damage.

If i used a hacksaw to carefully remove the olive then then the nut should slide also.

would the speed fits then hold the water pressure as a temporary thing??

Id solderd end feed caps on them all if dry, but as pipwork is staying then to cut the caps off it would reduce the height of the pipes coming through the floorboards.

 

[seco services]

ok then drain and remove valves
but i'd fit brass cap ends straight onto the olive/nut already there.

then you know they aren't going to leak or come off

pushfits ok but you only need a damaged pipe or paint and who knows the pushfit could be on the floor in the morning.

in perfect conditions they do hold on mains pressures and yours is only gravity, but cover your own ar*e and fit brass cap ends.

 

[paul78]

brass ones didnt even enter my thoughts..... makes sense though especially if i nipped the pipe when trying to remove olive.

Playing safe is definately the way to go, im glad you was on here seco as now i feel better about the situation and can crack on with the plastering.

thanks again

 

[seco services]

not so much you damaging pipe but the olive only got to have been overtightened and crushed the pipe abit then the speedfit won't grip fully.

cost abit more but keeps the insurance claims down