Dry-lining or traditional plastering, Which is cheapest?

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I'm soon to start building an extension. I'll be doing the plastering myself.

Just wondering what is cheapest in the long run: Dot & Dab + skim, or Traditional Browning + skim? I've approx 75 m^2 to cover, ignoring labour costs for both.


Thanks
 
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i think pre-labour costs, i.e. materials, for dot'n' dab against float'n'set are very similar, though d&d works out the more expensive.

d&d is lots quicker and less messy, f&s is for the skilled spread only. in areas where there is to be much fixing to the walls, f&s is by far the best.

d&d tends to be less messy, therefore less cleaning up after.
 
Hows the selfbuild coming along carryon ? I thought you had started a while ago?

Go on show us some pictures, you know you want to :)
 
diyisfree said:
Hows the selfbuild coming along carryon ? I thought you had started a while ago?

Go on show us some pictures, you know you want to :)

I've been helping a local builder for the past few months with a 4 bed detached house he's building, basically to improve my skills. I've been bricklaying, jointing, carpentry, plastering. The results are good, I can't tell the difference between his work and mine, :LOL: He'd have 'sacked' me if I was putting his pride and joy in jeopardy! ;)

Since I've helped him so much, he's offered me a good deal for him to 'knock up' the shell of my extension. I'm happy for him to do that for the sake of time, Though I'll still be doing my bit on the externals and most of the internals.

I've been reading this article on plastering:
http://www.diyfixit.co.uk/nflash/building/Plastering/plastering.htm
It suggest you can break up a large wall into a series of 3' or 4' bays seperated with grounds/batterns. That way you can get a even depth to the plaster and time isn't as much a limiting factor for the newbie. Of cause, once the grounds are removed you need to fill in the gaps. Just wondering if this type of plastering is weaker than a whole wall at once?

How do the pros do VERY large walls e.g. in offices?
 
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I have seen people use grounds, in fact im pretty sure you can purchase something for what you are wanting.

Bonding & Browning are not an hard product to use. they are pretty light so no arm getting tired and they have a much longer setting time when compared to your skim coat.

I cant see a problem in doing your float coat in 2 or 3 sections, just so long as you get the skim coat on in 1 go. that way you will have a better finish.
 
A better undercoat plaster is hard wall, multi backing, bonding is only used on very low suction back grounds, concrete and the like, browning is for high suction backings, celcon blocks for one.

Big jobs are maned by lots of plasterers to get it done in the least amount of hits.
 

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