Drylining / Internal wall insulation. I have some questions

[platforminc]

Hi All.

I have researched this topic on this forums and although I am better informed, I still feel as though I need to create a new topic so I dont go do something stupid or waste money buying wrong stuff.

I have solid internal walls in my house and i want to insulate it internally. In the last few months, I have had to insulate a wall in my bedroom, all I simply did was buy 100mm celetex board, cut it into size and friction fit it inside the batterns, the wall backs onto a warm loft.

This has helped a lot in the room in question, now we need to do it this time on internal walls that are external facing.

What someone told me was to simply do this, construct a frame like a stud wall frame using 2" x 4" wood, create batterns and space our accordingly i.e 350 mm etc. Buy celotex and cut it into the spacing between the batterns. Then use plaster board to cover the whole thing.

During my course of searching on the forum, I came across posts talking about vapour etc. I also came across another celotex product PL4000. So right now my objective is as follows.

The house is terribly cold and i want to make it warner.
The house is only warm when the heating is warm or when its warm outside.
We are having loft insulation fitted in the next month.
We have solid wood flooring which perhaps looking back now, may not be a good idea.
The ground floor suspended floor isnt insulated. To do this, we need to rip off the wood flooring, hence why I am looking at wall insulation.


My questions are

• Which method should we use ? PL4000 or create frame etc. I am not worried if we loose a bit of space as a result of insulation.
  I want to avoid skimming, is this possible ?
  Will a 25mm insulation be any good, especially around the bay area in the living room to the front of the property ?

 

[platforminc]

Anyone, please help.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Well that PL4000 looks pricey- depends if you're paying for fitting or doing it yourself.

The U value is the same as every other PIR board so it isn't a magic bullet.

So it really depends on whether you ever want to fix anything to the walls and/or whether you're bothered about the room acoustic. And how straight and level are your existing walls- if they're all over the place then stud is the way to go.

My preference for my own house would mostly be for the stud wall with insulation in between (though I'd have external insulation if I could afford it). But as you've probably discovered, 4 x 2 isn't free.

So the dot and dab vs stud and push is personal preference really.

If you fill the taper edges and then cover the lot with heavy lining paper (or put patterned wallpaper up) you might get away without skimming but skim does add stiffness to the wall.

25mm insulation will be a lot better than no insulation (if you're on solid walls) but not as good as 50mm insulation. It isn't magic, though you do hit diminishing returns fairly quickly. And I'm sure you know that you can buy taper edge plasterboard from anywhere that sells normal plasterboard (you don't have to have it with insulation glued to it).

 

[Guitar_man]

Firstly ensure your loft insulation is up to scratch and sealed all gaps. You may be surprised by the result. Either celotex or standard type rolls of insulation. Lay it on. Thick.
Dot and Dab even with standard plasterboard or foil backed adds a useful insulating airgap between the wall and the inside. Adding a insulated stud wall is going to be a lot more expensive. Dot and Dab insulated plasterboard is probably a useful compromise.

 

[platforminc]

Thanks guys for the info.
Upstairs, there's going t be a room that would need 100mm insulation as shape of the room means that it has 3 sides exposed via solid walls and one side backing onto a warm loft.

The other areas that need insulation aren't that large. They just consist of a lot of corners. Especially downstairs, hence why I was king about using a 50 mm. I have fitted a 100mm insulation on one of the walls backing onto the warm loft and it has made a difference.

I'm just thinking of the wall papers as the room upstairs most exposed is currently wall papered, so I will probably stick to wall paper. I'm thinking if I skim it and we extend the house in the future. All the skimming would need to be destroyed as the walls will be knocked down.

 

[jeds]

The simplest and most efficient way to insulate solid brick walls is with thermal laminate plasterboard fixed direct to the wall. e.g. Kingspan Kooltherm K17 or K18. These can be fixed dot and dab or mechanically. I'd use dot and dab on bare brick and mechanically on anything else. Just make sure you get the correct grade for each. It's easy to do and is effective. Also be aware that these boards come with different grades of insulation, so make sure you compare like-for-like when pricing. PUR foam is best. 50mm board would produce a good result. 60 or 70mm board would obviously be better. Use the thickest your budget will allow.

 

[SilverSaloon]

dont forget vapour barrier ontop of the celetex boards before you put the plaster board on (or use plasterboard with vapour barrier on the back of it)

 

[platforminc]

The walls are in a good condition.
Can you please send me a link to a vapour barrier product from wickes please ?

 

[theprinceofdarkness]

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Green-Polythene-Vapour-Barrier-2-5x20m/p/153230

have you not got Google on your PC?

Have you been around the complete inside of your house to note all the 13A power points , because the cables will be too short and the screws too short. Likewise door architrave, light switches, window frames in reveals etc.
Frank

 

[platforminc]

Good point mate.
Good thing in my case is that I don't have too many walls to do.
The main room with problems of sockets, telephone point etc is just one.
Where I'm concerned is with corners and under upvc seals. That's where I'm considering using a 25 mm. In other areas, I think I will just use a 100mm or 50 mm. Still deliberating. I want it to be a one off thing and I can just complete and move on
.