Dryrods Damp Proofing

[cycloneuk]

I have a 1930s house with some damp rising along 2 of the walls, nothing major apart from some flaky paint on 1 of the walls. It's 9" brick solid wall with a very small cavity of around 20mm. I have got some of the Dryrod kits off Amazon, there is an existing damp membrane that I can see along the mortar course. I suspect that since 1930 this as seriously deteriorated, can I install the dryrods along the same course? I can't go any higher and if I go a course lower I'm 1 brick away from ground level.

It looks like something has been injected into the actual bricks in the past, I can see a number of holes evenly spaced.

 

[mikeey84]

I reckon it's a waste of time, and that you would be better off lowering the ground level, as the damp is most likely caused by rain splashing up into the bricks above the damp course, or your cavity needs clearing out

 

[Guitarguy]

Dry rods are like snake oil….
Better off properly investigating the cause of damp and carrying out proper sympathetic remedial works using correct materials for the age of the property

 

[opps]

Dry rods are like snake oil….
Better off properly investigating the cause of damp and carrying out proper sympathetic remedial works using correct materials for the age of the property

I have used them once before.

A customer had damp (solid 9" walls) which I suspected was the result of a 4.5" garden brick wall that butted up to the building and had no DPC.

4 years later, I haven't had a phone call to say that the damp still exists.

 

[wessex101]

The existing DPC is probably fine, if it is bedded within the mortar there is not a lot that can go wrong with it. It is generally only where it is exposed to sunlight that it degrades or if it suffers from physical damage (such as someone drilling holes to install dryrods). In addition, the fact that there has been a previous injection DPC treatment would suggest that it is not a DPC failure causing the problem.

I would put my money on something bridging the DPC as mikeey84 suggested. Possibly debris in the cavity or the internal plaster or maybe even the floor slab bridging the DPC. I would exhaust all those possibilities before I considered the DPC as being the problem.

If you are determined to install the dryrods I would avoid the existing DPC bed and go 1 course lower if you really have to but I seriously think that it wont make any difference.

 

[opps]

The existing DPC is probably fine, if it is bedded within the mortar there is not a lot that can go wrong with it. It is generally only where it is exposed to sunlight that it degrades or if it suffers from physical damage (such as someone drilling holes to install dryrods). In addition, the fact that there has been a previous injection DPC treatment would suggest that it is not a DPC failure causing the problem.

I would put my money on something bridging the DPC as mikeey84 suggested. Possibly debris in the cavity or the internal plaster or maybe even the floor slab bridging the DPC. I would exhaust all those possibilities before I considered the DPC as being the problem.

If you are determined to install the dryrods I would avoid the existing DPC bed and go 1 course lower if you really have to but I seriously think that it wont make any difference.

I missed the fact that it is a cavity wall.

DryZone rods are only 7" long. How wide are cavity walls (commonly)?

Most of the properties that I work in are 9" solid walls.